N. Face Shuksan pics

[jonthomp]

Here are some pics from the N. Face of Shuksan. Some good shots of the route and surrounding terrain. No great action shots though. The TR can be found on the posting from 5/17.

 

Edited May 18, 2004 by jonthomp

[Alpinfox]

Nice shots JT,

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

 

[eternalX]

Rad shots! I spent so much time admiring Shuksan this winter. can't wait to get out there this summer and climb it.

[jonthomp]

Great mountain in a great area! Many routes are in great shape right now. Head on up! A winter ascent out of the ski area and rip down on my tele boards. That's my next objective. Glad you enjoyed the pics. My climbing partner took most of them. I haven't gotten my shots developed yet.

[AaronB]

I'm thinking of doing this next week.. I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with taking my lightweight La Sportiva Trango S boots.. Not warm/waterproof... Only other boots I have are double plastics, hard to hike in boots. I read your TR too.. You said you didn't use the rope at all. Don't you need to cross some glaciers on this route? Nice pics.

[Dru]

wear your plastics. dry, warm feet are worth a bit of clunkiness.

[jonthomp]

There are several glaciers to cross. Extent of crevasses depends on your route. Mostly things are still buried beneath lots of snow. My attitude toward roping up is not to unless actually taking the time to belay and/or place pro. We never felt the need as conditions were mostly good and the risk of falling felt minimal. We climbed with our harnesses on, but never pulled out the rope. The only place I wished for a rope was downclimbing the summit chute, but it was in the pack at the base of the chute. Other than that, things felt safe enough. Of course, "safe enough" depends on your own level of experience/comfort and the specific conditions you find. Definitely bring a rope and use it if you feel it's necessary. Most of the glaciers right now are more like big snowfields, but there are some hidden crevasses starting to open up (we found some crossing the upper curtis on the descent).

 

As far as boots, I wore my plastics. While they could be better for hiking, nothin' beats 'em on the snow and there's lots of snow. You'll be happy with the warmth and waterproof. Carry running shoes and hike in those. Switch to the plastics when you hit the snow.

 

What route are you planning?

[ddday]

I did the climb in my La Sportiva Nepal's and they were just fine. Looking at the trango's they looked like they'd do as well so long as they hold the crampons. Like Jon said if that chute at the summit got any icier I'd have been wishing for a rope. For the most part though I was only really wigged for a 20' of the descent. Pitching off would have meant a 500' ride with some potential boulder collisions along the way. If anything I'd maybe carry a short rope depending on your comfort level.

[snafflehound]

Pitching off would have meant a 500' ride with some potential boulder collisions along the way

My friend Don and I summitted on Wed. the 19th. This was one of our first summits together in back ‘82. As we stepped down into the top of the gully the snow broke out from beneath his feet right next to me. He cart wheeled for 700’ and kissed some of those rocks on the way down. I really thought I lost him. He broke his hip, lower back, hand and got a slight concussion. He’s very lucky to be alive. Mt. Rescue was able to get to him with a chopper just before dark. He’s home now, semi mobile and he should fully recover. Thank-You to Whatcom County Sheriff’s Office, Whatcom Mountain Rescue, the Park Service and NAS Whidbey. They all did a stellar job and we should support them any way we can.

Also, some of our things are still strewn about in that gully. If anyone reading this is headed that way we’d really appreciate it if you could scoop it up on the way out. Don’s axe is of special importance to him as it has great sentimental value. I haven’t had a chance to get back up there yet. You can contact me at snafflehound’at’cliffhanger’dot’com. Thanks.

[jonthomp]

Wow! Glad to hear he is "okay". I was suppressing visions of the same thing as we downclimbed. There was an axe found up there, but it sounds like it was found too soon to be your friends. Might be worth checking, though. Wishing a speedy recovery. The axe thread is at:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB30&Number=349292&Forum=f30&Words=&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=349292&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=0&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post349292

[mvs]

I'm glad he'll be ok too. Best of luck for Don's recovery.

[AllYouCanEat]

That is something of a fall. Here is a close up (shaddy because it's a close up) of the pryamid. I've skied the route several times and I couldn't imagine falling. I'm glad he made it. That's one hell of a fall.

 

Here is a pic of the pryamid from a few years ago...

 

[Pencil_Pusher]

That sucks. I've been there unroped too (winter) and it was getting on and off that shoulder at the top that really put the scare in me. Glad to hear he's alive. It's too steep there to self arrest.