sketchfest Posted May 14, 2004 Posted May 14, 2004 (edited) Last night B-rock and I climbed a route at Rocky Butte, just below Silver Bullet bluff that I'm not sure is in the guide book. Based on the picture in the guide it looked like it was between Centurion and Invisible Man. The route started with a couple of burly moves off the deck following a thin finger crack before traversing right over easier ground, then up another short crack that had an old block of wood wedged in it, up to a ledge, then launching into a very thin, dirt filled crack to a set of fairly new anchors. Does anybody know what this route is called and the rating? Although I struggled and made it look exceptionally harder than it really was, I thought it might have rated in the .9 range. I think the upper pitch could have been Invisible Man, but I'm not sure about the start. (More info: The route could have even been further around the corner from Temporary Arete, there were a couple of very distinguishing features in the route, one being the block of wood in the crack, another being a large pine tree at the half-way point and another being a sharp brittle flake near the top just below the anchors) Edited May 14, 2004 by sketchfest Quote
sketchfest Posted May 14, 2004 Author Posted May 14, 2004 Bill's down in Yos. What about Hal Burton, hasn't he done a bunch of stuff down there? Quote
ChrisT Posted May 14, 2004 Posted May 14, 2004 Do you have the book? It's pretty comprehensive. I'll bring it along next time. Quote
sketchfest Posted May 15, 2004 Author Posted May 15, 2004 Hi ChrisT! Yeah, I've got the book, but I think this climb is either a new one or a really old one that wasn't included in the PRC book. Quote
Hal_Burton Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 What was it like at the base of the route? Flat or a disgusting dirty slope of broken glass? New bolts on top? Could the tree have been deciduous? Quote
wayne Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 I did not see the route in any of the guide books... There are 2 older books on just Rocky Butte itself. They were written by Bob Mcgown and occasionally show up at Pows but I am sure the Maz'es have copies in their amazing library.. Bob put way more stuff in that is in PRC. It is likley someone scrubbed out that and many more now dirty cracks. Heck, the housing development bulldozed in dozens of bolted classics, of course illegally Quote
billcoe Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 Sh*t, I was gonna say ask Wayne..... Hi Wayne! You may have combined 2 new routes but perhaps done the one on the left. It's just left of "Tits Baby" (thats the only name I remember, "tits" is the route which angles right and up past the tree). Newer route, not an old one (as far as I know but who can really say) both by Kelly Warden. The block of wood got pounded in the left hand route there to keep the rope out of that knarly rope-cutting v-pinch. Kelly did that being a carpenter and all so ask him what the name was/is as I am old and addled and easily forget even my childrens birthdates and names. About a year ago he'd ask me if it needs bolts and where? I said as far as I know he can do whatever the hell he wants, put them in anywhere he wanted essentially as he was cleaning it - doing the work and all, which I've since come to realize was shitty advice. He shoveled and brushed for 2 years. Simple question, I'd put a couple in, 1 about 10' up as that crack is tight, looks near un-pro-able and you'd eat hard dirt if you pitched and it seems kind of unbalanced .10c ish or so ?? (*cough* oldpussy, *cough* oldpussy with weak arms) there to me. I've only TR'ed it by the way and as i suggest it seemed harder than .9 so you all must be eating your wheaties for breakfast or somethin'. You guys lead it? If so, would you recommend bolts and if so where? PS, the "annual" pilgramage to Mecca was unimaginable, even if it was for less than a week and generally just repeating easier classics. Been 8 years since I was in the valley. Ahhhhhhhh. Quote
EWolfe Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 I may get banned, but I got a Butte Route for Wayne... Quote
sketchfest Posted May 17, 2004 Author Posted May 17, 2004 Bill, That sounds about right as far as what we climbed. I took the lead and really fought the opening sequence. Lots of balancey smearing, followed by some strong language and eventual whimpering. Even though the crack is thin at the start, it was still very protectable. In fact my first two pieces (first one a 00 Metolius, second one a #3 stopper) held quite nicely as I managed a little whipper that brought me back to within a foot of the ground. I don’t think the route needs any bolts, If “tits” is the route we were on, it was pretty fun and even though a bit run out in spots still takes good gear when you need it. That old block of wood is also a nice touch. Quote
billcoe Posted May 17, 2004 Posted May 17, 2004 Bill, ...my first two pieces (first one a 00 Metolius, second one a #3 stopper) held quite nicely as I managed a little whipper that brought me back to within a foot of the ground. I don’t think the route needs any bolts, If “tits” is the route we were on, it was pretty fun and even though a bit run out in spots still takes good gear when you need it. That old block of wood is also a nice touch. Sweet! Dude if you're taking a lil' whipper it's most likely way harder than .9 as you kick ass above that grade. You'll most likly enjoy the route immediatly to the right of it as well. You can runner the Tree that's over 1/2 way up and also get in some sporadic/manky gear in the dirt-filled condom-encrusted jizz-dripping garbage impacted cracks...typical Butte, which explains why I usually toprope there. Makes shaking the Jizz off and chalking up an easy affair instead of a wet-messy process. Btw, side note - pulled a nice sized incut/handhold block at the top of the r hand route last year and broke my foot with it when it slammed down. Quote
sketchfest Posted May 17, 2004 Author Posted May 17, 2004 Geeesh, Bill, yer making me blush...nobody else thinks I climb that way. Quote
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