Alex Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 There was some discussion of the Greenwood/Locke in winter on LTV, but I have not heard the official story. Was a report published anywhere? Thanks Quote
John Frieh Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 I thought it had already been done in winter a few years ago... is that what you are referring too? Man that's a hot route... Quote
Alex Posted May 11, 2004 Author Posted May 11, 2004 Greenwood/Locke had apparently never been done in winter, the Elzinga/Miller has been done 3x, though. Alex Quote
John Frieh Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Cot damn if that's accurate... makes you wonder how much longer before the emperor face goes down in winter. Quote
Alex Posted May 11, 2004 Author Posted May 11, 2004 You've heard of Infinite Patience right? Thats the Emperor Face in winter, done by Bubba. Quote
Alex Posted May 11, 2004 Author Posted May 11, 2004 Ooops, I just checked, it (Inifinte Patience) was climbed Oct 23rd or so, so I dont think thats technically winter...? Quote
John Frieh Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Wasn't that done in October? I don't want to split hairs or dis bubba, but playing by the rules it doesn't count as a winter ascent (if I have the date right). Yes it was winter conditions, but... Quote
John Frieh Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Yup. Still awaits a winter ascent... and they say the North Face of Eiger is thee North Face to do... Quote
stinkyclimber Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Also impressive (although not quite a winter ascent, but early April is still pretty wintry) was the House/Prezelj climb of the North Face of the North Twin. See the LTV thread, or http://www.climbing.com/news/ntwinagain/ Much more remote than Temple, and a much bigger route. House dropped his outboot on Day 3 of 5, and so they had to walk out via the Columbia Icefields - 40KM or so. A friend of mine was in there the day after doing the ski route up the Twins and came across these crazy postholes, one-way, all the way from the summit to the parking lot! Not something you see everyday up there (I have been up skiing on that icefield too - friggin huge...I can't imagine the prospect of walking it in winter conditions - although I guess it would feel a little more secure than a 6000ft alpine face!). Quote
mchisik Posted May 26, 2004 Posted May 26, 2004 "It was the first winter ascent and probably the second ascent overall of the Sphinx Face (V 5.9 A2), established in October 1988 by Ward Robinson and Rob Orvig." Slawinski climbed it with a russian. I saw the news at http://www.baskcanada.com/News/babanov_ca.htm Quote
Dru Posted May 26, 2004 Posted May 26, 2004 There were several ascents of Temple NF routes this "winter" ( some ascents occurred after March 21). Slawinski and Firth climbed the Greenwood/Locke, Slawinski and Babanov climbed Sphinx Face, and Semple and Owens(?) did a 1-day ascent of one of those two routes shortly after. Quote
Ade Posted June 1, 2004 Posted June 1, 2004 Firth/Slawinski, Greenwook-Locke - first winter ascent. Slawinski/Babanov, Robinson-Orvig / Sphinx face - second ascent & first winter ascent. Semple/Walsh, Robinson-Orvig / Sphinx face - first one day ascent (in April but in winter conditions). House/Prezelj, N face North Twin, independent line joining the Lowe-Jones for the upper half - third ascent of face (in April but in winter conditions).Full Report Quote
Stemalot Posted June 2, 2004 Posted June 2, 2004 so Prezelj led all the remaining pitches after House lost his shell? maybe I can do the same next time I am out climbing with someone... Quote
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