crimp training

[Distel32]

anybody got any good training tips for crimps?? Right now I just focus on climbing on crimps indoors and am working on one arm crimp dead hangs.

[willstrickland]

Get on the 45 degree wall, train on relatively large crimps, add weight to your body to increase the intesity rather than using smaller holds.

 

I believe you can train crimp strength with less chance of injury and equal results by using larger holds instead of tweaking on the smallest ones at bodyweight.

 

Two-armed hangs with elbows slightly bent and weight added is probably less likely to contribute to shoulder and elbow problems than one armed straight-arm hangs. That's my take.

[lummox]

Right now I just focus on climbing on crimps indoors

go outside?

[jonah]

One arm hangs, unweighted with a pulley system on a relatively large edge. Make sure you are directly underneath the edge with your arm slightly bent. Do it with supination (i.e the position your hand would be in drinking a beer). 3 sets of 5 second hangs each hand with 3 minute rests between sets. I was able to go to deadhanging with one hand fairly quickly and safely that way, but more importantly I got stronger, sent harder shit and held off injury.

[Gender_Bender]

Dude I dont know if it works but stefano dead hangs with weight on timed intervals on the hangboard. I havent tried it yet but he does it all the time. He uses the medium sized edges, the ones that are the size of your whole pad. He hangs for like 20 seconds then one minute rest and so for 6 series.

[Distel32]

werd, thanks guys, exceppt lummox who didn't get what I was saying.

 

Going to Hope, BC tomorrow.

[sexual_chocolate]

Once your crimp strength has improved from the above mentioned training tips, build a campus board with 1/4 to 3/8 inch edges. 1 foot spacing.

 

Procede to campusing on edges, perhaps once or twice a week, and watch with amazement as your raw power sky-rockets.

 

Gotta stick with it for a few weeks, and you gotta back off if you get pain in your pulleys or joints (bad pain as opposed to good workout pain).

 

Good luck.

[Distel32]

we already have a campus board built and it was square 1.5" edges and then small round rungs. need to start working out on the small round ones.

[bigwalling]

Damn, this makes me miss training. I had goals to meet to! I messed up my shoulder, so it's all aid for a while.

 

But I used to do weighted dead hangs. Most of the time with 2 hands, but I was starting to do it with one and lighter weights. I'd also do campus type stuff on all those edges on my hangboard. All I know is I realied on my fingers for everything, that was how I got up my hardest problems, which aren't that hard though. Now I'm really pissed I'm hurt.

[layton]

Damn, this makes me miss training. I had goals to meet to! I messed up my shoulder, so it's all aid for a while.

 

But I used to do weighted dead hangs. Most of the time with 2 hands, but I was starting to do it with one and lighter weights. I'd also do campus type stuff on all those edges on my hangboard. All I know is I realied on my fingers for everything, that was how I got up my hardest problems, which aren't that hard though. Now I'm really pissed I'm hurt.

 

ditto. i was all set for some new types of training too till ye ol' shoulder prob kicked in.

[Szyjakowski]

Right now I just focus on climbing on crimps indoors

go outside?

werd, thanks guys, exceppt lummox who didn't get what I was saying.

 

well, i do believe you are wrong young distel

the best way to train for climbing is to climb outdoors.

[Distel32]

TRAINING for climbing. Climbing outdoors is climbing, have you ever heard of this thing called rain it sometimes does over on the west side of the mountains....?

[Szyjakowski]

bwhaahahahah

distel, yes rain is so suck. find a cave and climb in it.

real climbing is done in ALL conditions.

from what i read above, you seem to be doing all the right things for crimp climbing/training.

cheers.