Jump to content

Yosemite daze


willstrickland

Recommended Posts

Hola kiddies,

 

Just passing through PDX to take care of some financial bidness on the way to cooler rock.

 

Washington climbers...Crazy Jamie is doing you proud...did Zenyatta and on the Sea of Dreams right now in fact, and Lambone and crew were on the Trip last I saw them.

 

No walls for me this time, partner did not come prepared and I'm too lazy to solo in the heat.

 

Middle Cathedral area has been seeing crazy rockfall both in the descent gully from the Cat Walk (making Stoners Hwy, DNB, E butt, etc essentially off limits if you're smart), as well as in the area of the DNB. One guy trundled on himself and broke an arm in the fall on the DNB, another guy narrowly got missed on the Central Pillar from spontaneous rockfall, and a party on Lower Cathedral Spire had a flake blow ripping the belay in the process and they somehow did not go to the deck.

 

A rope soloist on Braille Book was climbing with a soloist, didn't tie back-up knots and decked off the first pitch from 70ft. Shattered elbow and hip but stable, guys in the adjacent camp to us were above him on the 2nd pitch and rapped to give him aid then watched him get mangled after spending 5 hours to get him stable and stop the bleeding....until the chopper had a glitch on takeoff and drug the litter through the trees shearing off a 14inch diameter pine and crushing the climber to death.

 

Highlights for me were:

 

1. One awesome slabby boulder problem (Blue Suede Shoes)

 

2. One awesome steep boulder problem (Don't make me kick your ass)

 

3. One relentless crack (Lunatic Fringe)

 

4. And one funky chimney (Reeds Direct)

 

Took a head-first and backwards screamer off the 3rd pitch of Reed's direct when I pulled onto a face hold, crimped the shit out of it and broke the crystal off in my fingers...this was about half way up the pitch...not even at the crux. There's a good photo of the cam lobe bruises in my back from where I fliped into the wall with the rack pinned between. My belayer looked shocked...I came to rest looking eye to eye with him....then I got to finish the pitch... a mellow .10 OW move.

 

Good times, great oldies...headed to Index and Squish soon...I need partners...drop me a line if you have weekdays free for Index/L-worth and Squish...

 

Hasta,

Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 20
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

quote:

Originally posted by willstrickland:

No walls for me this time, partner did not come prepared and I'm too lazy to solo in the heat.

 

Hasta,

Will

Hey Will, good to hear from you; Great TR.

 

The Partner wasn't prepared? Gear, physically or emotionally.

 

PM me if you want to climb something next weekend (28- 30th). Rock or alpine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Bob,

I wnet and climbed the Tooth. I did that sequence of little holds up the final headwall. I am spraying about it.

 

I don't care what you think, but I do enjoy pissing you off by chestbeating about my latest accomplishment. [Confused]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

isn't it like 5.4? nice scramble. but last time i checked it was cascade climbers. are you trying to make it into cascade chuggers? your post pretty much sums up the scene.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey texbuttpugger- did you even leave the aiders? [laf][Moon] . last time i checked you needed fitness level of a truck driver to aid climb [laf] . by the way i need a belay slave for u- wall. can you get up such thing or do you have to bring jugs? [laf]

 

[ 06-22-2002, 07:31 PM: Message edited by: crazypolishbob ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"I mean I was on some overhanging "4th class" in the valley".

in aiders and jugs? [laf][laf][laf][Moon][Moon]

 

[ 06-22-2002, 07:58 PM: Message edited by: crazypolishbob ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so how is that texbuttpluger? nemesis, hydrophobia, the nose in a day, nw half dome free in a dayand rude boys in 4 weeks span? did you do daily planet yet? you're just a little cunt with a big mouth. how many 5.13 have you done?maybe churning or darkness? how about oxygen? time's up rings a bell? have you ever os 5.12? how about alpine, maybe like matterhorn in winter via n face or maybe fish on marmolada or speccio di sara? maybe cassin on cima ovest free. you probably don't even know these names deepshit.so for closer to home- how about thin red line in 14 hours? how about nightmae on woolf street or suffer machine? terminator, sea of vapors and replicant do i need to add lurking fear in 11 hours?do you even know what i am talking about you little turd?

 

[ 06-22-2002, 08:19 PM: Message edited by: crazypolishbob ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

your last post just did it you are a wanker. i can outclimb you any time pal. after you're done sucking wind and hanging on a pitch i lead i will give you a good shoe up the ass and a good kick to your rhino size balls to wake your sorry ass up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have done your share of time on the jugs too. Do you count jugging without touching the rock a "free ascent". oooohhhh The nose in a day-its a fairy crack. Try the Salathe where you can't aid your sport crimpin 5.13 ass up an offwidth hollow flake with no pro. ooohhh the Matterhorn. That is the Mt Hood of the alps. It goes all the way up to what 16,000. Anyway, I don't care if you've climbed 5.15 or a double corniced ridge at 20,000ft. Climbing is about internal struggles, adventure, and friends having a good time. I don't even spray boulderers, ok well sometimes. If that is what their cup of tea then let them have it. As for you . . . well your a sad posturing lad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob says he's done a bunch of climbing. Bla Bla Bla.

 

Will nice TR hope your doing well...Kurt

 

[ 06-22-2002, 08:40 PM: Message edited by: AlpineK ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talkin about doin the homies proud...Texplorer was on a damn tear down there, knockin off stiff classics in style.

 

Partner was not prepared experientially...did not get his skills in order beforehand. Still got to do some fun classics I'd never done.

 

Anyway, partners...I NEED partners...where are all the slackers/students who have weekdays free??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

one relentless crack (lunatic fringe) [laf][laf] that thing is 10c [laf][laf] need i say more? or should i say crack climbing 101? can you actually climb or you just spray and punch your clown? [Moon][Moon][laf]

 

[ 06-22-2002, 01:57 PM: Message edited by: crazypolishbob ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...