Recovering from a screw up on rappel

[catbirdseat]

Claim your page top, Greg.

[Greg_W]

Page tops are for fags. And don't tell me what to do; I hate authority.

[catbirdseat]

Tell that to Dru, but only if you want to.

[assmonkey]

I like s and I'm a heterosexual.

 

 

- a s s m * n k e y

[SublimeSalamander]

This thread sounds like a climbers version of the Kobayashi Maru scenario.

 

Live long and prosper.

[Jason_Martin]

To Get this back on track:

 

I'm a big proponent of rappelling on an extension. In other words rappelling with a sling girth hitched through my harness, with the rap device about two feet away. The reason I like this is because of the diversity it offers. I'm not going to go into all the benefits, but I will go into the one that fits here. The following requires rappelling on a reverso.

 

If I get to a problematic rope end or some other need to ascend the rope, I simply clip the fin of the reverso on my extension to my belay loop. I then automatically have a ratchet with which I can ascend the rope. If this takes place on in a hanging position, I have to add a prusik to do this and to ascend the rope. If there is a stance of any sort, I can create the ratchet by unweighting the rope. I can then quickly ascend the rope by pushing the ratchet up and standing on stances. Even on the tiniest of stances I can do this. The result is an extremly effective means of climbing back up the rope and fixing the snafu.

 

Good stuff! Time to go climbing now.

 

Jason

[thelawgoddess]

[catbirdseat]

Jason, that put it over the top for me. I'm going to buy a reverso. They are so versatile.

[fenderfour]

Jason, that put it over the top for me. I'm going to buy a reverso. They are so versatile.

 

I'm with CBS on this. It would be damn easy to go from a rappel to a rope clamp with the Reverso. I think I need to get one.

[catbirdseat]

I was rapping the route on Dark Rhythm and the anchors are so well camouflaged that I once went 15 ft or so past one of them on a 60 m rope. The Reverso in the "ratchet" mode would have been nifty for scrambling back up the slab to the anchor.

[Dru]

on a slab just about any rap device will "rachet" as you climb the rope and pull through the rope.

[E-rock]

Wow no wonder Necro is so pissed. This thread blows!

[Dru]

you could liven it up

[Jason_Martin]

on a slab just about any rap device will "rachet" as you climb the rope and pull through the rope.

 

The big difference being that the reverso will automatically lock you off, whereas most other devices don't have this option. This is particularly nice if you have to use both hands to deal with whatever problem has arisen. Tying off, using a autoblock, or whatever else you come up with, I still think the set-up I described above is the best option.

 

Jason

[Dru]

ok jason, but using your system don't you have to put the prusik or autoblock on above the device which is already extended above your harness? it sounds like a little bit of a clusterfuck. i mean i have climbed 20m up a slab in the past just pulling rope thru my atc because i was too lazy to walk back around to the top...its not like it is all that hard. i can see on vertical walls how the ratchet would help but it also seems kinda tricky to set up if you are already dangling in space and with a prussik and rap device both a few feet above your waist sounds even worse.

[Jason_Martin]

Do what you like... Some things are better in some situations, but I have a feeling that if you try this, you'll find quite a few uses for it.

 

Jason

[G-spotter]

I threw my Reverso away because it was sharp enough to shave with. Now I have a BD ATC Guide. Meanwhile CBS is still coming up with theoretical but unplausible solutions to other peoples accidents.