real trad ratings

[cracked]

real trad

 

I'm off to class. But this thread is boooooring!

[texplorer]

This post is was a waste of my time.

[RuMR]

ummm...my post? or the whole stupid thread?

[MrDoolittle]

One time, my foot got stuck in a crack. AY-KURUMBA!!

[kevinoregon]

OK so this thread is getting pretty long, but I can't help throwing in my experience of the difference between trad and sport. Before I moved to the NW, there was NO difference in my mind between trad and sport. The distinction was never made. I was just looking through my climbing guides from the Salt Lake City and the City of Rocks where all the climbs I have ever done are coded with the type of style I used on the climb. I am a strong leader of everything up to 11c and have been known to lead up to 12b. Of the leads in my comfort zone (up to 11a or 11b), I noticed that there were equal numbers of flash leads (onsite lead with no falls) on trad and sport. It made no difference to me if it was bolted or if I needed gear. Many climbs were a combination of the two.

 

I think the only difference between trad and sport is the difference we place on it in our minds. Our level of fear will determine if the climb is climbable or not. If you have never taken a hard fall on natual protection you may have a lower fear factor than someone who has taken many falls on natural protection. If you wonder if that stopper is placed good enough to take a fall you will have a lower fear factor than someone who knows without a doubt that the stopper is well placed and can take a fall. My own fear factor sometimes forces me to put in a couple good pieces before the crux of a climb or after a long run out.

 

So once again, the only difference between trad and sport is fear. I agree with the orginal post in this thread. 10a is 10a whether it is trad or sport. It is the same with all the grades. The only difference is fear.

 

OK, I'm done.