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Blakej

first set of crampons

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Smaller cross section. I wouldn't get them as a glacier crampon due to the fact that they ball up more than, say, a G12.

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Sabertooths.... rockband.gif

My first pair of crampons wer SMC's with the orange rubber straps...

Sabertooths.... rockband.gif

The metal is actually fairly resiliant to mixed as well bigdrink.gif

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Smaller cross section. I wouldn't get them as a glacier crampon due to the fact that they ball up more than, say, a G12.

i've had no problems with my g14's balling up. antibott plates work. thumbs_up.gif (that is ... if you put them on right ... evils3d.gif)

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Most definitely the Sabretooths! I've used mine on everything- slushy or hard snow, low angle ice, steep ice, brittle ice, soft ice, mixed...they're amazing. Can't say I've used the Grivels, can't imagine that they'd be too much worse, but for me the Sabretooths are where it's at!

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What's wrong w/ the G14 frontpoints?

Jaee,

 

Nothing is wrong with the G14's frontpoints, for the purpose for which they were designed. As I understand it, the G14 is designed for water ice, and it excels on that medium. I think it is even a bit better than the Bionic for water ice. But the G14's front-points have a much thinner profile than the G12's front-points. So the thinking is that they are more likely to rake through the disconcerting "snow-ice" that one so often encounters on "alpine ice" routes in the Washington Cascades. Obviously, people use the G14 crampons to climb all kinds of stuff, so I'm not saying they won't work, just that the G12 might be a better performer in certain situations. In particular, someone looking for a crampon for general-purpose Cascades mountaineering probably doesn't need the extra weight of the forged, adjustable front-points that the G14 has. Not bagging on the G14, it is a great crampon. Just my $0.02.

Edited by Stephen_Ramsey

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I just picked up a pair of G14's and I think I over did it. I might bring them back for some G12's or BD sabertooths. I will not be doing anything vertical any time soon.

 

Does anyone know if they sell the G12 front body? I can then just swap this out if I ever need the Forged front points. Make sense?

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NOLSe seems to have good things to say about the Petzl Sarkens- can anyone elaborate? Has anyone used these for water ice or alpine ice? What binding would you recommend? (Sidelock or Leverlock)

 

G14's - what binding do people prefer? (especially for vertical use) - Crampomatic (step-in) or newmatic?

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I have G14s with crampomatics and G12s with newmatic. I think thats the right combo. i originally bought the G12s for use in alaska so i could put them over an overboot with greater confidence, but have used them since on rainier and other mountainering purposes. i've used the G14s mainly as monos on water ice cragging, and used duals bouldering on the nisqually. i would proabably use G14s with duals on winter alpine routes if i ever get the chance to get out.

 

so i guess for me the crampomatic makes the most sense for vertical. i dont worry so much about the twisting forces tourquing the toe bail off in this situation.

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My favorite all around crampons for everything from snow to vertical glacier ice are the Charlet Moser 12 point crampons with the less aggressive secondary front points; these are a more old fashioned crampon design with slightly shorter teeth. The shorter, slightly less aggressive, teeth make these crampons easier to walk in, less tiring when walking and climbing on rock in crampons. The simple horizontal front points work great in snow and are also fine on the softer ice we get in this area most of the time. (I have Grivel G14 s as well, and like them, but they are overkill much of the time and not as agile for regular glacier travel). The steel on my Charlet Crampons (2 years old) is superior to the steel used for the Grivel and Stubai crampons I have used; it holds an edge longer. My Charlets have the "new-matic" style bindings, with heel clamp and toe strap. This binding is very secure and easy to use and adjust. The heel clamp is low profile, so it doesn't dig into my heel like the bulky clamps did on my Stubais did. Grivel's "new-matic" bindings are not entirely secure on either of my size 8-1/2 boots; the pivot point of the rear bail falls just ahead of the edge of the boot heel, allowing the rear section of the crampons to move quite a lot even with the clamp set tight. The pivot point of the rear bail is farther back on the Charlet crampons and is much more secure on my boots. My Grivel G-14 s have "fully automatic" bindings, with a forward steel bail instead of straps. My boots fit these bindings better, the pivot point on the rear bail lands over the boot heel and is quite secure. The moral is, bring all your boots to the crampon store and try all the differrent combinations of crampons and bindings.

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I looking to buy my first set of crampons and I've been looking hard at the grivel G 12 and grivel Air Tech. The question would be what am I loosing by going with the air tech besides weight. Are the shorter spikes going to effect me much? Are there any other models to look at for just basic first set type deal?

 

hello - I have charlet vasak. The ones that have the binding system that will fit on nearly any footwear.

 

They are steel and climb really well. They would be good for starters on waterfalls that freeze or most any mountain situation. Although if you climb waterfalls in the winter often I would suggest something else to do that..

 

They have the supportive points behind front points and are fairly light for being steel. The flexlock binding is the best for all around for me.

 

These I would recommend for a good set of first crampons.

 

pet_vasak_flexlock.jpg

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