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Posted

Much better to rope up in teams of two, I only rope up with one person and one person only... if there are any one else coming on a trip, I make them find a another person that they trust to rope up with... I don't do trains... [laf]

Posted

2 x 2 is faster on almost all terrain but for glacier travel where you are significantly worried about falling in a hole, you might want to rope up as 4.

Posted

au contraire, a shorter length is insurance that you won't have to arrest a 180 pound rocket, and gives you extra line to sort things out down in the crack.

Posted

I agree with iain. Especilly when you consider muliple cravasses and that they are not always perpendicular.

 

That being said the ability to get in self arrest without hesitation is paramount. A Kiwi coil that is too short will fuck you bad. Adiquate loose rope and quick reactions are the best insurance on a 2 person team...other than not falling in in the first place, which is my personal preference.

Posted

Save the two climbers on a rope with tons of spread between them for the big glaciers in Alaska. Go with Iain's suggetsion!!!

Special note!!!

All of the climbers on a rope team should be completely versed in safe alpine traveling techniques and avalanche awareness procedures. !!!If you do not know, then you should not go!!!!!

Posted

There's a thought. The group that got munched above the bergshrund on Hood last week: "We took an hour before leaving the Palmer chairlift to teach everyone self-arrest and self-belay techniques." An hour. In the middle of the night. Plenty adequate to make the moves second nature, I'm sure.

 

Oh well, live and learn. Or is that learn and live?

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