bobbyperu Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 ja, so pax and i rallied to l-worth last nite...bivied below castle and hit up der sandys waffle haus for breakfast, and none other than the bascamp westvallia owned by the one and only misterE rolls up...so we were 3, then i headed into peshastin to pick up a homie. so 4 deep we roll to alphebet rock, it was raining lightly, so we stuck close to the road. we tour the cliff from right to left...good stuff cracks, and grabbygrips.dog-leg and the facy climb were fun in the rain, meatgrinders pretty rugged, z-crack was wet, jaws was easier to lead then tr..huhh.. fun stuff we then hit up the tumwater butt, and enjoyed easy scampering up cool features for 3 pitches, with sigle 60 m stretchy abbs to the dirt...weather actually improved tho was cool and windy mit gut colors sehr gut biatch now we got our steins and are throwing back and cookin up, hope tomorrow is sunnier tho we'll do rain too, its all gut wie gehts Quote
Distel32 Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 I'll be there friday-sunday it looks like. Quote
bobbyperu Posted March 31, 2004 Author Posted March 31, 2004 its goin off right about now...acht schnell! Quote
jordop Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 Ich heisse Superfantastisch! Ich trinke Schampus mit Lachsfisch! Ich heisse Su-per-fan-tas-tisch! Quote
bobbyperu Posted March 31, 2004 Author Posted March 31, 2004 und ja trinken und essen das is naturlich, nicht..? wer ist ins peshastin trinken alot Quote
Alpinfox Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 On Tuesday we climbed at Alphabet Rock. The 10a face climb just right of Dogleg Crack (also good) is really nice with one delicate stemming/high reach move. The Z-crack is a brilliant climb though it was a little wet and sandy in the horizontal crack making up the top of the "Z". The arete climb on the far left of the crag called "Jaws of Life" has some wow-golly-gee-fun arete slapping on slightly overhanging terrain, but that isn't the crux! Oh no. The crux is the less-than-vertical blankness topping out above the arete. I couldn't figure it out. Good thing the esteemed Mr. Peru is back in fine ropegun form. We decided to finish off the climbing day with a romp up Tumwater Buttress. This is an easy (probably 5.5ish?) three-pitch route up the licheny, but otherwise pretty clean and solid buttress. It is in a very aesthetic spot; right above some largish rapids in the Wenatchee which drown out the highway noise nicely. BP and James on the route: With more traffic, this route will clean up nicely. It might take some patience to find gear placements, but the whole route is low angle and there are plenty of nice hands-free stances, so it might be a good beginner climb. The pitches are a FULL 30m, and you may even have to stretch the rope a bit on the first rappel. Anchors are 1/2-inch bolts with chains. Enjoy! James and his housemate Brian put us up for the night and we feasted , drank , , and listened to lots of . Thanks guys! On Wednesday BP and I headed to Trundle Dome. Lots of nice routes up there! We climbed Sonic Boom, Flake Fest, Hundred Dollar Dash, and April Mayhem - all fully deserving their two stars. Here is a picture of BP atop the aptly named, "piller de cowboy boot": After Trundle Dome we sat down by the river and had some lunch and chilled out a bit. Nice scenery: Overall it was a great couple of days climbing and I'm looking forward to getting out there again soon. Hopefully by that time my partner will have some new shoes: Quote
minx Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 nice TR is that tumwater buttress route one that i could do w/a my currently small rack? (i've sent away for some of the pills the nice spammers advertise to increase my rack but they haven't arrived yet) i'm assuming that 5.5 w/anchors doesn't take a lot of gear? is it clean enough that my partner who is a strong climber but new to leading trad would be comfortable taking a pitch? Quote
EWolfe Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 Nice TR you guys! It was great to finally meet BP Strong climbin' lad I picked 5 ticks off of me that day, SO DO YOUR TICK CHECK REGULARLY if your climbin' in der Leavenworth. Great to be back on the Eastside! Quote
Alpinfox Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 Minx, I'd say you should be able to climb the TumButt (hehehe) route with a very small rack, but keep in mind that it is a new route with quite a bit of lichen on it. The route does not follow a continuous crack system, so there might not always be a gear placement exactly when you want it, but it is low angle and has lots of steps. Take home message: It's easy climbing on licheny rock with sparse, but adequate (my opinion) protection. I led the second pitch and I placed two pieces of gear in 30m. I wasn't really looking to place more though... The best way to find the route is go to the gas station when you first come into leavenworth. Do a U-turn and go back west on Hwy2. Drive maybe an eighth to a quarter of a mile until you see a small pullout on the right side of the hwy that is big enough for two or three cars right at the base of the buttress. Park and hike up some talus (there is a trail) for a couple hundred vertical feet to an obviously stomped out belay platform. Rope up and scamper straight up the crest of the buttress. Routefinding is pretty straightforward (pretty much straight up the crest of the buttress), but right above the first anchor you want to go straight through the little roof thing. It's not really a "roof", but I don't know how else to describe it. This protects well with a small cam (I think I used a BD 0.5) and is easier than it looks. Maybe this route is in the new guidebook??? I don't know, I only have the old one. MisterE, Good to see you out there. You sure styled the wideness on "Meat Grinder"! I'm looking forward to our outing this weekend and will be free/ready to leave Seattle this evening! Quote
scott_harpell Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 There is an interesting one that pulls the roof to the left. It has like pods and weird shizzle in it. Holes connected the you can thread your arm (or sling). Very interesting. Quote
bobbyperu Posted April 1, 2004 Author Posted April 1, 2004 jaaaa! gut times ins der canyons for sure...fun climbing mit everyone...nice to meet the misterE man himself...thanx for the tour of theBASCAMP... way to float meatgrinder...der. thanx pax of course for putting up with my incessant ranting about and shit...you rock! and james and brian for sure for puttin us up. these climbs are all real good, close to the road, good variety, etc...i love how you can still climb in the canyons when its raining and the wind is blowing...get out there, its real good right now Quote
Alpinfox Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 There is an interesting one that pulls the roof to the left. It has like pods and weird shizzle in it. Holes connected the you can thread your arm (or sling). Very interesting. "Return to the Womb" (10b) "Follow bolts up to a large hueco, where crawling inside it(!) provides a rest before the final steep section". We didn't get on that one - next time! Quote
EWolfe Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 [PM]Sweet! I just got the roomie all settled and $$ collected, so I will give you a call when I get ready to leave town [/PM] Quote
Alpinfox Posted April 1, 2004 Posted April 1, 2004 [pm]Why don't you give me a call sooner and let me know what I should bring (food? gear?) besides the rope we discussed earlier and where/when we should meet.[/pm] Quote
slaphappy Posted April 2, 2004 Posted April 2, 2004 nice TR is that tumwater buttress route one that i could do w/a my currently small rack? (i've sent away for some of the pills the nice spammers advertise to increase my rack but they haven't arrived yet) i'm assuming that 5.5 w/anchors doesn't take a lot of gear? is it clean enough that my partner who is a strong climber but new to leading trad would be comfortable taking a pitch? The route is in the book as Ground Hog Day 5.7 (prolly a bit easier though) on Tumwater Buttress. A set of stoppers and a few cams should suffice. Contrary to what Alpinfox said the route is not new, just "rediscovered" Quote
Alpinfox Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 nice TR is that tumwater buttress route one that i could do w/a my currently small rack? (i've sent away for some of the pills the nice spammers advertise to increase my rack but they haven't arrived yet) i'm assuming that 5.5 w/anchors doesn't take a lot of gear? is it clean enough that my partner who is a strong climber but new to leading trad would be comfortable taking a pitch? The route is in the book as Ground Hog Day 5.7 (prolly a bit easier though) on Tumwater Buttress. A set of stoppers and a few cams should suffice. Contrary to what Alpinfox said the route is not new, just "rediscovered" Thanks Slaphappy, I looked in the new guidebook this weekend and saw that my grading estimate was a little low. Thanks for clearing that up. Quote
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