Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
fredrogers

Mangled hangar and bad bolt- Domestic Dome

Recommended Posts

Climbed a couple of routes on Domestic Dome this weekend with JJA.

 

I led a climb called BS (aptly named), supposedly 5.6, that starts off as moderate gear up to a bolt protected slab. The old, SMC hangar is spinning and quite mangled. wazzup.gif

 

I backed it up by sliding a nut over the bolt and then proceeded to take a short fall onto it. It held, but based on the runout, sandy friction slab above it (10-12' before you can get your next piece in) I wouldn't want to take that fall onto that hangar and bolt. hellno3d.gif

 

I'm posting this hoping that a) some newbie 5.6 leader doesn't get on it and wing onto that hanger and bolt and b) since the top of the bolt is bashed down and I can't replace the hanger, that some kind soul with a drill might see fit to replace it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

in your opinion - does this route see enough traffic to warrant replacing it? are you asking that both bolts be replaced or just that first one? is there a decent anchor up top to replace the bolt on rappel...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know about how much traffic it sees- I just assume that since it's given a fairly easy grade and right by the road that newbies will be on it.

 

I don't really have the experience to judge whether the bolt needs to be replaced- although it is sticking out of the slab a good bit. I know the hanger is bunk and it looked like the top of the bolt had been bashed down to keep the hanger from being stolen.

 

There is just one bolt on the route- the rest is gear. There is a three bolt anchor at the top of the pitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did this route a number of years back and recall the slab to be sandbag 5.6, a little runout and with potential for rubble from the ledge above- not a good choice for fledgling 5.6 leaders. But a route it is and therefore it should have a good bolt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LA- thanks for taking a look at it. I need to go buy some hangers and remember to bring a wrench with me.

 

It is a sand bag at 5.6 and the fall from above the bolt would be bad- right onto low angled terrain below. I was definitely happy to fire a cam into the slot at the top of the slab.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I climbed this route on saturday and thought it was the most difficult 5.6 I have ever been on. The "bolt protected" move onto the slab felt like 5.9, and the rest of the slab seemed like 5.7-5.8. I am not much of a slab climber, but that rating is ridiculous. Running it out 15-20 ft on a rusty bolt doesn't help the mind too much either. Last thursday we climbed freeway gunshow at 38 (very soft 5.10a slab), and it was substantially easier than BS (a few letter grades). I second the motion for bolt replacement, but also think people need to be aware of how sandbagged this thing is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just take a wire brush and excavate the sand to find hidden holds. really though its more peshastin like than leavenworth. i actually thought bs and the climbs above were pretty soft for the grade. that was 10 yrs ago though. i bet more holds have vanished under the sand by now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I climbed both routes last summer. My thoughts were that B.S. was pretty on for the grade (5.6), and that FGS was more like a 5.8. I don't remember too much of a run-out on B.S., maybe there were gear placements in the horizontal folds?

 

- a s s m * n k e y

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought it was hard for 5.6 for what it is worth... but perhaps is is just that it has not been devalued by 'grade hyperinflation' .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×