Mangled hangar and bad bolt- Domestic Dome

[fredrogers]

Climbed a couple of routes on Domestic Dome this weekend with JJA.

 

I led a climb called BS (aptly named), supposedly 5.6, that starts off as moderate gear up to a bolt protected slab. The old, SMC hangar is spinning and quite mangled.

 

I backed it up by sliding a nut over the bolt and then proceeded to take a short fall onto it. It held, but based on the runout, sandy friction slab above it (10-12' before you can get your next piece in) I wouldn't want to take that fall onto that hangar and bolt.

 

I'm posting this hoping that a) some newbie 5.6 leader doesn't get on it and wing onto that hanger and bolt and b) since the top of the bolt is bashed down and I can't replace the hanger, that some kind soul with a drill might see fit to replace it.

[lost_arrow]

in your opinion - does this route see enough traffic to warrant replacing it? are you asking that both bolts be replaced or just that first one? is there a decent anchor up top to replace the bolt on rappel...

[fredrogers]

double post

Edited March 30, 2004 by fredrogers

[fredrogers]

I don't know about how much traffic it sees- I just assume that since it's given a fairly easy grade and right by the road that newbies will be on it.

 

I don't really have the experience to judge whether the bolt needs to be replaced- although it is sticking out of the slab a good bit. I know the hanger is bunk and it looked like the top of the bolt had been bashed down to keep the hanger from being stolen.

 

There is just one bolt on the route- the rest is gear. There is a three bolt anchor at the top of the pitch.

[lost_arrow]

thanks - i'll take a look at it this weekend - easy enough to replace...

[matt_warfield]

I did this route a number of years back and recall the slab to be sandbag 5.6, a little runout and with potential for rubble from the ledge above- not a good choice for fledgling 5.6 leaders. But a route it is and therefore it should have a good bolt.

[fredrogers]

LA- thanks for taking a look at it. I need to go buy some hangers and remember to bring a wrench with me.

 

It is a sand bag at 5.6 and the fall from above the bolt would be bad- right onto low angled terrain below. I was definitely happy to fire a cam into the slot at the top of the slab.

[scot'teryx]

Total Sandbag, I remember backing off that route. Really sandy

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I climbed this route on saturday and thought it was the most difficult 5.6 I have ever been on. The "bolt protected" move onto the slab felt like 5.9, and the rest of the slab seemed like 5.7-5.8. I am not much of a slab climber, but that rating is ridiculous. Running it out 15-20 ft on a rusty bolt doesn't help the mind too much either. Last thursday we climbed freeway gunshow at 38 (very soft 5.10a slab), and it was substantially easier than BS (a few letter grades). I second the motion for bolt replacement, but also think people need to be aware of how sandbagged this thing is.

[Dru]

just take a wire brush and excavate the sand to find hidden holds. really though its more peshastin like than leavenworth. i actually thought bs and the climbs above were pretty soft for the grade. that was 10 yrs ago though. i bet more holds have vanished under the sand by now.

[assmonkey]

I climbed both routes last summer. My thoughts were that B.S. was pretty on for the grade (5.6), and that FGS was more like a 5.8. I don't remember too much of a run-out on B.S., maybe there were gear placements in the horizontal folds?

 

- a s s m * n k e y

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Maybe I was just off or something. It felt hard to me.

[robertm]

I thought it was hard for 5.6 for what it is worth... but perhaps is is just that it has not been devalued by 'grade hyperinflation' .