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Posted

I have some extra time on a work trip this weekend, and am going to go to Yosemite since I have never been there. I figure I will get there about 4 PM tomorrow and have all day sunday and monday to climb. Any suggestions where I should plan on sleeping tomorrow night, and what the best way of getting a partner to climb with on sun, mon?

 

Any help appreciated.

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Posted

For pick--up partners, I find that I usually do well to look for parties of three. You still gotta ask about what their interest and experience level may be, but I tend to do much better checking out parties of three who are obviously headed off to climb something than asking lone climbers who are just hanging around.

Posted

Camp 4, aka Sunnyside, is the logical place to both sleep and locate partners. There are various dirtbag/free/illegal camping strategies, but they may not be ideal if you're looking to cultivate social contacts and possible partners. There is a bulletin board, but trolling the campsites may work just as well. I'd recommend you look at some of the moderate grade IV's as ideal outings: E Butt Middle Cathedral or NE Butt Higher Cathedral as shady side routes, E Butt El Cap or Serenity Crack/Sons Of Yesterday for sunnier side routes. I think any one of those routes would make for a satisfying quick trip.

Posted

This a great time to be in Yosemite, you'll have a blast. in my opinion, good weather windows in March are the best times to be in the Vally. With any luck I will be there next week.

 

Go to Camp 4. It cost 5 bucks...no big deal. You hear lots about pirate camping in the Valley, but that is during the summer months when it is crowded and the camp is full. This time of year Camp 4 is a ghost town.

 

For that reason, picking up a partner may be more chalanging than you are expecting. I would post a note real quick in the Supertopo forum. Lots of Californians in there who will be heading up to make the best of good weather this weekend. People have found great climbing there in the last few weeks, but the park is relatively empty. You could try rockclimbing.com also.

 

Places to pick up partners when in the Valley:

Camp 4 kiosk bulliten board, Lodge Cafe, Mountain Room Bar (also in the Lodge, Denagens Cafe in Yosem Village, Mountain Shop in Cury Village.

 

E But of Middle is a great route, but the decent is a snowfilled gully that may be tricky this time of year. Another option would be Central pillar of Frenze (5.9), where you rap the route.

 

Manure Pile is a good one for moderates, Nutcracker needs to be done for historical value alone. If your into soloing 5.6, "After 6" is a popluar solo on Manure pile, something you could do on Sat afternoon.

 

Even if you just go hike around or boulder, it would be worth it.

 

Have fun!

Posted

My guess is the E Butt of El Cap still has meltwater running on it, for what that's worth.

 

Another good moderate is Commitment, over by Yos Falls area. Interesting and challenging, especially early in the season.

Posted

Since it's your first trip to the Valley. I'd just do some craggin everywhere instead of committing one of your 2 days on a long rt. Sunnyside bench is great in march.. so is nuts only cliff.. um i think thats what its called.. I'd check out bishops terrace.. 5 open books.. all of those should be warm and fuzzy in the sun.. the south side of the valley is still cold and damp.. lots of snow in the gulleys

 

Have fun.. if you get cold.. remember the buses are free and have heaters.. thumbs_up.gif

Posted

Hmm, good point about E Butt El Cap, it is still March, isn't it? Middle Cathedral descent gully would suck if it was full of snow.

 

Aaron, I suggested the long routes specifically because they are one of the things that stand out about Yosemite. There is good cragging all over the country, but few enough places that can offer the kind of long consistent quality routes you can find down there.

 

Of course, there is some stellar bouldering in Yosemite.... yellaf.gif

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