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Ruth Mtn./Icy Peak bivy site


Stagger_E

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I think it depends what time of the year you go. If early season Hannagen pass offers a good protected bivi, with a steep climbers trail the next day, and once up on the mountain it is clear with few crevasses to Ruth, and the traverse to Icy looks nice with only a mile between the two peaks. There is some scrambling to the summit of Icy (never done it) but looks straight forward. Then back to the pass for the next night. I have heard of it done in a day under prime conditions, the road to the trailhead if it is drivable. Nice views and a nice ski tour. Have fun! I haven't been there in early season.

TTT [big Grin]

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We tried skiing Ruth last year about I think in late April (do a search there should be a report) and there was still snow about a mile and a half to the trailhead. I'd check the WTA site and call the ranger station but my guess because of a high snow fall year is that the approach will be longer. Hannagan pass is very good protected bivy site with lots of places to choose from and would be a good objective for the first day. From hannagan pass there is a steep climbers trail, followed by a traverse that gets you up to the arm towards the summit of Ruth. Ruth should be fairly quick from the pass but I don't know about Icy.

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Bivy right on the summit of Ruth. There's plenty of room for a tent or bivy sacks. Excellent views of Shuksan and Picketts. Last bit of Icy peak is a 3rd class gully if snow free, with a nice block at the top to sling if you feel like rapping off on the way down.

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There is also a flat area next to a large crag just above the steep scramble down to the Ruth-Icy notch. Last August it was still snow covered. instead of going down the gully, look for a cairn off to the left, indicating a good way to get down to the notch. Spectacular views of the noth side of Shuckson.

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