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Index Saturday?


EWolfe

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Thursday was T-shirt weather at the LTW. Only half a dozen folks, all from B'ham. Little drips here and there but everything is pretty much dry. Gonna be there tomorrow. Yea-hah!

 

QUESTION: What is an honest rating for the third (guidebook 11a) pitch of Heart of the Country?

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The third pitch of HoC is 10a. It's a little funky and off-balance gaining the start of the handcrack proper, but then it's sweet.

 

The 11a part is the thinner (ring jams for me) crack that goes from the anchor at the top of HoC to the anchor at the top of G-M. It still doesn't feel 5.11a though.

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That upper part of HOC is easy (10a/b?) if you find the hold. If you try to stay in the crack all through the bulge it's probably much closer to 11a. Perhaps the key hold wasn't there when the pitchlet got it's original rating. I would bet that the hold has since been unearthed, demossed, or the rock has shifted or something.

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