Ultimate Road Trip II

[Skip_M._Kliphiem]

On July 1st I'll be leaving a 13 week road trip with the intent of ticking off a few classic climbs as well as some hidden treasures. A couple of years ago, a partner and I were climbing together in a few of these locales with great success. We found good climbing in Colorado, Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. In 10 weeks we ticked off 14 alpine climbs and too many roadside crags to mention!

(TR from 2002 Road Trip)

 

My Itinerary:

The Wind River Range, Wyoming, July 17 through 31:

Deep Lake (5-7 days)

North Face of Haystack Mountain (II, 5.6) and Converging Cracks (II, 5.7-5.8)

North Ridge of Steeple Peak (III, 5.8)

Northwest Buttress of Temple Peak (III, 5.8)

Cirque of the Towers (5-7 days)

Warm up on the South Buttress of Pingora (II, 5.6) and Northeast Face of Watchtower (II, 5.7)

North Face/Northwest Ridge Warrior II (III, 5.8)

Northeast Face Pingora (IV, 5.8)

 

The Teton Range, Wyoming, August 1 through 15:

CMC Route on Mt. Moran (III, 5.4 or.6)

Direct Petzold Ridge of the Grand Teton (III, 5.7) or Southeast Ridge Middle Teton (III, 5.7)

Serendipity Arete on Mt. Owen (IV, 5.7)

North Ridge of the Grand Teton (IV, 5.8)

Open Book on Disappointment Peak (III, 5.9)

The Snaz in Death Canyon (III, 5.10)

 

Tuolomne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, August 20 through 31:

West Ridge of Mt. Conness (II, 5.6)

Hobbit Book (II, 5.7) (unfinished business)

Matthes Crest traverse (III, 5.7) combined with Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak (III, 5.6)

North Face, Regular Route of Fairview Dome (III, 5.9)

 

The High Sierras, California, September 1 through 15:

East Arete of Mt. Humphrey (II, 5.4)

East Face of Mt Whitney (III, 5.6) or East Buttress (III, 5.8) contingent on crowds/permitting

Moon Goddess Arete, Temple Crag (III, 5.7) and/or (both)

Venusian Blind Arete, Temple Crag (IV,5.7)

Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag (IV, 5.7 to 5.8)

Southeast Face of Clyde Minaret (IV, 5.8)

 

Yosemite Valley, California, September 16 through 30: anything could happen at this point!

 

You may have noticed that in most of the regions the climbs I have selected start out easy and progress in difficulty. This is to accommodate new partners whom may not have acclimated, some of the climbs range from 8 to 10 thousand feet, many are 12 to 14 thousand feet. Aside from The Snaz most of these routes are of moderate rating. They have been selected for that reason as well as their reputation for being among the best in the country at this grade. This is very enjoyable climbing on mostly quality rock, little to no brush bashing and it never rains! Just look out for those lighting bolts.

 

I plan to stick with this calendar, the dates will not change. The individual climbs may vary depending on partners’ availability/abilities. I have partners for several of the climbs already. If you have serious interest in getting together for a couple of routes or one of the regions, get in touch with me. I have been to many of these areas, have maps, guide books, route topos, know where to find free camping, fresh bakery, great local brews & grub and free internet access.

[sobo]

Man, that's a really nice trip plan.

 

How do I get a job as a Master Slacker so I can do these things? Much training involved in that line of work?

 

Have a bunch of fun, Man.

[Blake]

That's looks awesome! Take pics, posts TR.

[bobbyperu]

"ultimate" without the needles..? sounds cool anyway.-bp

[Skip_M._Kliphiem]

That's looks awesome! Take pics, , posts TR

 

Yea, last time I carried a film camera. This time I would like to have a digital so I can post pix. Any suggestions for cameras that will hold up to the abuse? My Lieca got damaged when I was in the Sierras last summer.

[dberdinka]

Wind Rivers are amazing. The Deep Lake area is a worthy counterpart to the cirque and was nearly deserted when I was there. Consider the South Ridge of Haystack vs the North Face. If you and your partner are up for it definitely add the Minor Dihedral to your list (III-IV 5.9) One of the best climbs I've done anywhere.

 

In the Cirque WatchTower and Warrior have reps for shitty rock (not that Ive done either) S Butt of Pingora is fully worthy. Consider doing Sharks Tooth by any route (great rock) and naybe Overhang Tower in the same day (1 pitch 5-low to awesome summit). I think my favorite climb in the area is the East Face-Left Side Cracks on Pingora, up to 12 pitches of flawless granite from 5.5 to 5.7. There is an intimidating steep dihedral around pitch 10 (looks hard) that is stellar 5.7 jams and stemming. Awesome!

 

Have fun.

[Skip_M._Kliphiem]

Good Beta, I'll look into those other routes for more options.

[foraker]

Canon S400 or later.

[thelawgoddess]

talk about a plan!

[Skip_M._Kliphiem]

Canon S400 or later.

 

I like the looks of that camera. Idealy though, one that runs on double A battries...that way I can just rob the batteries out of a headlamp if needed, more affordable too!

Those lithium batteries are expensive.

[Dru]

lithium batteries cheap like dirt when compared to price of flash memory cards