Dru Posted March 3, 2004 Posted March 3, 2004 triple-roped gritstone bouldering movie many strong climbers had previously failed to even TR this successfully Quote
Lambone Posted March 3, 2004 Posted March 3, 2004 wow, that high-step heel-toe-jam-leanover is about the funkiest move I have ever seen! "I'm definately not good at fear."....classic. Quote
Winter Posted March 3, 2004 Posted March 3, 2004 I thought he as a "poxy skinny sport climber." Quote
EWolfe Posted March 3, 2004 Posted March 3, 2004 It killed me that the videographer asked him "What's next" before he even got the ropes pulled up. Let the man enjoy his send. Quote
Jake Posted March 3, 2004 Posted March 3, 2004 That was definitely a cool move. Anybody care to translate HXS 7a/b or E7 into YDS? Quote
Dru Posted March 3, 2004 Author Posted March 3, 2004 7b means hard v12 or harder move crux HXS is equivalent to "E7 or harder". Quote
bremerton_john Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 The link doesn't work - or maybe I don't... Quote
Thinker Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 updated link: http://www.cmedia.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/elderstatesman.wmv Quote
Distel32 Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 7b means hard v12 or harder move crux HXS is equivalent to "E7 or harder". I think you mean 7b means 5.12. Font 7B is only V-7. 7b=5.12b Quote
Dru Posted March 4, 2004 Author Posted March 4, 2004 7b means hard v12 or harder move crux HXS is equivalent to "E7 or harder". I think you mean 7b means 5.12. Font 7B is only V-7. 7b=5.12b UK technical 7b means - single hardest move equal to roughly V12 or harder if it was a single move boulder problem Quote
willstrickland Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 No, because British 7b is about French 8b. Depending on which table you look at it's given as between 5.13+ and mid 5.14. Quote
Dru Posted March 4, 2004 Author Posted March 4, 2004 but: the Yosemite and French grading systems rate "overall difficulty" of a route, whereas the UK technical grade rates ONLY the "hardest single move" of the route. routes that are sustained at the technical grade get a higher E grade. for instance there are many 5.13+ to 5.14- routes that would only have a UK tech grade of 6c. Quote
willstrickland Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 Yeah, but who cares about the grade anyway...the coolest thing about that video is that is plays like a spoof of Hard Grit until he actually starts climbing. Quote
Distel32 Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 7b means hard v12 or harder move crux HXS is equivalent to "E7 or harder". I think you mean 7b means 5.12. Font 7B is only V-7. 7b=5.12b UK technical 7b means - single hardest move equal to roughly V12 or harder if it was a single move boulder problem ah hah! you failed to say UK Technical in front of 7b! good call. Quote
Jedi Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 I always enjoy watch good climbers climb. They make the cimbs look so easy. You think "damn, I could do that" knowing in the back of my head there is no way. I wish they had footage of the other good climbers just trying it on top rope, floudering on the route. Quote
Dru Posted March 4, 2004 Author Posted March 4, 2004 ah hah! you failed to say UK Technical in front of 7b! we're talking about a UK gritstone climb, everyone but you already knew I was referring to a UK tech grade because the other part of the question contains a UK adjectival grade. Quote
Distel32 Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 hey I already withdrew and said you were right! don't hurt my feelings on top of it Dru let's hit up squmaish boulders soon. Sounds like you've been doing some and I'd like to join you up there Quote
Dru Posted March 4, 2004 Author Posted March 4, 2004 stop trying to be nice this is a brawl! its almost dry enough to run out to HOPE which is closer than Squamish But I heard it was going to rain this weekend Quote
Distel32 Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 ok, I'm free the 15th-16th as well. so maybe we'll get a window then. Quote
Dru Posted March 4, 2004 Author Posted March 4, 2004 you will like this one Nate Woods problem where you do a lying down start and crawl out this V10 roof 6-8 inches off the ground bring a shovel Quote
icegirl Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 wow. that rocks. now the people at work really think climbers are nuts... Quote from one of the nurses "did he just jump out there like a spider or something???!?" Quote
Dru Posted March 7, 2004 Author Posted March 7, 2004 So dare I ask. why three ropes? he's worried about the rope cutting on the arete if he falls off, so its triple redundancy instead of using 2. note he unties from 2 on the first ledge and drops them so when he gets to the top he only has one left Quote
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