underworld Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 or as long as you don't fail on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 i thought those werre just someone else's biners with the logo added, like metolius biners are really Lucky's Madrock claims to have independantly developed them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crackers Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 I've flown onto all my aliens a ton and they've always held, even the black one. If they'd just ramp up their quality control, I'd buy them again. So would I, but I'll never trust CCH. I logged a lot of air time on my vintage black, and it's been fine. Then again, I don't get much time on granite. I've broken a #2 Zero and saw the remnants of a friend's broken #3 or 4 Zero. They're just not made for leading climbing and horizontal placements if you weigh 200 or more pounds. BTW, I've also watched purple TCU's get mauled and wrecked a couple of 00's myself. We knew the potential for failure, and we honestly were never very surprised when we failed the gear. Horizontals and big guys aren't a very safe mix for cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 You placed a #2 zero on a free climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhyang Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Hmm, I thought Z1-Z2 were aid pieces ... Z3-Z4 are supposedly rated to 6kN according to their spec chart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crackers Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Yes, I did place an "aid" piece on a free climb. I've done it before, and if I have to, i'll do it again. I'd rather have the piece disintegrate under load than have nothing at all. And yes, the Z3 and Z4 are rated to 6kN...But think about what happens when a 240 pound person falls on an early piece. Shoot, one guy I used to climb with was 6'7" 325#. He wouldn't trust anything under 9kn to hold him, and he'd screamer the little stuff and back it up if at all possible. We busted the Metolius stuff by taking repeated whippers on them, turning them after they got bent, and fully recognizing that we were way, way, way beyond what any piece of gear should be able to survive. I trust the Metolius TCU's much more than the Zeros. You can tell when they're, erm, under stress. Like I said, I don't blame them for failing...they didn't fail, they were exposed to greater than their limit. But if you even think about comparing Zeros to (perfectly made, therefore mythical )Aliens, I'm arguing that it makes sense to consider that my experience is that a 200 pound guy will fail all of the Zeros first. Just one of those many things that makes leading fun, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korup Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 If you're still buying Aliens, you clearly haven't been paying attention! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 the newest of the new aliens have stamped on the stem "tested" or "tensile tested" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 I love aliens. I have red, yellow, green, blue. Place red and yellow most often, fall on green most often. I am really bummed about the recent issues. I really want to buy more of them (replacement yellow and the new grey), but am concerned about quality. For now, I will wait. I hate the TCUs/Power Cams and definitely won't buy those. Don't know what else would do. Maybe Tech Friends or C4s (both of which I like in larger sizes). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 C3s are awesome too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korup Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 the newest of the new aliens have stamped on the stem "tested" or "tensile tested" sorry, but i just can't trust anything CCH does after seeing how absurd and bush-league their response was! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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