Bandersnatch

[CPOly]

Does anyone have any info in terms of protection required for the Bandersnatch?

[bremerton_john]

No, but I'd be interesting in knowing a bit more about the route myself. Anyone?

[CPOly]

Well, a buddy and I went in to try and locate where the "snatch" actually is. We left Oly late Wednesday night and crashed at the car near the trailhead. Got up around 7 am and started the hike up the old road near the Putvin Trail. After a little over 3 miles we left the road and followed a faint trail heading in the general direction we were hoping to go. Soon we found some flagging marking a trail and so we assumed we were on the right track. There was enough snow accumulated that we no longer could follow the trail so we basically kept hiking up the path of least resistance. Every once and a while we would see some more flagging and again assume we were on the right trail. After about 6 hours on the move we topped out on a hill across the valley from Mt. Stone. From our high point we could see what we believe to have been the Bandersnatch probably about another hour or two away from where we were. We decided to hang out for a bit and gather our wits for the way back down. The Bandersnatch was going to have to wait for another visit when there isn't as much snow or when we have a couple of days for the attempt. The descent took a little over 3 hours and we were back at the car. All in all a nice long day in the hills and a mellow drive back to Olympia.

[CPOly]

We finally made it in to hit the snatch. It was a little loose and dirty but enjoyable nonetheless. CL and I left Olympia last Thursday at 4am. I had two soccer games the night before, one at 9pm and one at 11pm. By the time I got home and finished packing it was about 2am. CL only got about an hour of sleep as well. It would be a delerious couple of days. We arrived at the old road near the Putvin Trail around 5:20am to stash the bikes for the ride down. Then back down to the Lena Lake Trailhead where we did some sorting of gear and packing. This is when we realized we forgot to bring a fuel canister for the stove. Also not knowing how much snow had fallen in the last couple of days I decided to bring lightweight hikers instead of heavier boots, strike two. And finally we realized that we had only one pair of sunglasses between the two of us. Oh well, up we go. The first 3 miles to the lower lake was uneventful as usual. After a small break we kept going to the upper lake. Here's the false summit of Bretherton and Upper Lena Lake:

 

 

We then continued around the lake to the ridge west of the lake. We decided to follow the ridge SW staying on top until we reached the highest point. There we spotted somewhat of a good spot to bivy for the night. After we stomped out a little platform to sleep on, we found a little water source to filter some water for the next day. We crashed pretty early that night as we were both exhausted. Up at about 7am the next morning feeling very refreshed. We were both physically pretty sore but mentally renewed. It took us about two hours to arrive at the base of the spire. This is CP on the approach:

 

 

Once at the base of the spire we geared up and I set out to lead the first pitch. This turned out to be a 4th class gully with mixed rock, snow and ice. We both climbed this in crampons which neither of us have done before, it was a good experience. I then setup a belay and brought CL up. From here we could see the route described in the guidebook as an open book 5.6, but we couldn't see the standard route. The 5.6 corner looked to have good pro so CL decided to give that a go. He had an excellent lead on what turned out to be a fun pitch. Once on top we found the rap anchor, slung the big chunk 'o stone, and started to make our way down. After the first rap, we donned crampons again, found another anchor, salvaged a rap ring to use, and rapped down to the base. Here's a shot of the spire:

 

 

We then loaded up the pack and started back to where we stashed the other pack. We took a little break and started our way down and out. We had contemplated heading up and over St. Peter's Gate and coming out the Putvin Trail but decided we didn't want to go up anymore. So we traversed over to the small lakes east of Mt. Stone known as Ullin's Bathtubs. Here we finally filled up on water again and kept going down. We basically followed the creek that drains the small lakes staying on the East and then North side of the creek. We had come in here a couple of weeks before just to scope things out and so we knew the descent pretty well. Darkness had set in luckily after we got through the steep forested area. We then finally made it out to the old road for the easy part of the descent. At the point where the way trail reaches the old road, there is an old wooden bridge. I dropped my pack on the bridge and walked around to the creek to fill up my waterbottle. I noticed something in the bushes near the creek. At that exact moment, CL yells "Chris, you gotta see this!" I walk back to the bridge and he points to a cell phone and notepad sitting on the bridge. This isn't just any cell phone and notepad, it's HIS! He had lost both the last time we were up here and surprisingly it was still there. He had no idea where he had lost them and we were joking throughout the whole trip that we might find his phone somewhere along the way. Amazing. Then I went back to find out what I had spotted in the bushes when he called me over. There I found a pretty nice PUR water filter. After the excitement we started heading down the nice knee-saving graded roadbed. Eventually we made it back down to the bikes and the main road. From here it was a downhill coast back to the car. All in all this was an amazing trip. Definitely an experience builder as this was our first "alpine rock" climb. Sorry it was so long winded.

[olyclimber]

Nice CP!

[Stefan]

nice!

[Blakej]

very nice. Good to hear there are some rap slings as last I heard you had to tie your rope to the anchor tree at the base and over the bandersnatch and rap the opposite side.

[CPOly]

Yeah, we opted to bring a long sling as suggested in the CGOM not knowing what to expect.

[Fairweather]

 

Nice!

[bremerton_john]

Well done fellas. BlakeJ and I cruised past it last summer on the same Lena to Stone roundtrip. We opted for Stone instead on that day. It was also nice to know about that descent out of Ullin's Bathtubs. We were wondering what that would entail. One map actually shows an old trail that heads up through there, but I don't think there's any traces of it anymore.

[CPOly]

The trail is still there in bits and pieces John. Just past the old wooden bridge described in the guidebook, the trail heads up on the N side of the creek. It makes a rising traverse until you get to a basin and somewhat of a headwall below the lower lake. We figure it's best to stay high on the hillside to the right of the headwall. It seems to be steep open forest on this side as opposed to steep schwacking. Either way it's still a viable option to get into that alpine area.

[Dave_Schuldt]

Great TR, the more you forget the less you have to carry, so the faster you can move.