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Posted

I thought I had posted this before... Oh well.

 

What do you think about the DMM 4CU's? I'm pretty new to lead climbing and I would like to get a rack together, I just want to do it right. I noticed that the DMM cams were lighter than most of the others, but I couldn't find any user info on them.

 

What is a decent canister type stove? I curretnly have a Whisperlite, but I am looking for a lighter weight compressed gas type stove for my summer climbs. I will probably be using this stove for everything up to about 7,000'.

 

Thoughts? Opinions?

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Posted
I thought I had posted this before... Oh well.

 

What do you think about the DMM 4CU's? I'm pretty new to lead climbing and I would like to get a rack together, I just want to do it right. I noticed that the DMM cams were lighter than most of the others, but I couldn't find any user info on them.

 

What is a decent canister type stove? I curretnly have a Whisperlite, but I am looking for a lighter weight compressed gas type stove for my summer climbs. I will probably be using this stove for everything up to about 7,000'.

 

Thoughts? Opinions?

 

I really like the DMM hand-size pieces (say 1.75-3.5). The 4 is nice too, though it is narrower than an equivalently sized friend or Camelot, which seems to make it want to walk more in a flaring placement. But I think any large piece will walk in a flaring placement.

 

I have a Primus Alpine stove. It's around $30. Good, though doesn't have as stable a platform for a pot as a heavier [or titanium] stove.

Posted

I climbed a bunch last year on the DMMs. I liked them. Good spring action and easy to handle and place except for the really little ones, but I have huge hands so most people can probably fit their fingers into the trigger easier than me. Their weight is pretty darn good. Also check out the Wild Country Tech Friends, they are only slightly heavier and offer a single stem design if that is your scene.

 

I have a Coleman canister stove that sucks. Try something else.

Posted

I have the #1 and #2 dmm FCU's and I think they are great. They place well, they are light weight, and affordable (as far as cams go).

 

Pro Mountain Sports on the Ave (if you live in Seattle) has them in all sizes.

Posted
I really like the DMM hand-size pieces (say 1.75-3.5).

 

I should add that I've never tried the smaller DMMs -- I've used Aliens and TCUs in those sizes. You'll find that the weight differences are negligible for the smaller sizes, and the Aliens and TCUs have narrower head profiles.

 

(The Aliens and TCUs also have "teeth" on the cam lobes, where as the DMM 3CUs don't, though it probably doesn't make much of a difference?)

Posted

I have 2 to 3.5 I think and they work fine, I like the lightness and the double length sling.

 

I went from a Whisperlight to a SuperFly and I really like it, pretty stable and it just works. I considered the pocket rocket but didn't need something that light and stability could be an issue. Just need to figure out what to do with a bunch of almost empty canisters.

Posted

I have a pocket rocket stove by MSR. Cheap, light and dependable. I've used it at 10,800' on Rainier and for winter camping as well. The other stove I considered was the Brunton Crux. Folds up to fit in the cavity on bottom of a butane cannister. I decided against it because it was new on the market and not proven.

Posted
Just need to figure out what to do with a bunch of almost empty canisters.

 

If you're not feeling violent like Dru, you can just bring an armful of them when you go car camping (like at Smiff), where it's not much of a hassle to slap another canister on when one runs out.

Posted

The MSRs have a very small burning circle if you look at the water that boils and the water closer to the outside of the pot, I have a gigapower and the burning circle is dispersed much better. It's a little more money but it is much more efficient. I have it wired to a teapot and I put a hole in the teapot handle so the whole system can hang and when I pour the stove still sticks to the pot, it's almost impossible to spill and everything fits back inside the teapot, except the canister.

 

Talk to the folks at Second Ascent if you're in Seattle.

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