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Posted

Heard at Pitcher Falls, Saturday Jan 24, 11:00 AM. Temp about 5 below, Wind 10-20 mph. Ice is absolutely bulletproof. We two dumb southerners are climbing and freezing. 4 local climbers show up - gear up - bitch about how freaking cold it is, and wonder who forgot the propane heaters.

 

Suddenly, from about 40 feet up I hear: "Ice climbing is a stupid sport" and the sound of gear going back in packs. They leave for beer indoors. We stay for another hour and leave, too.

 

That same morning at least 6 parties attempted the summit of Mt Washington. Air temp -38, Wind about 80mph - gusts to 100. I think all turned back at treeline.

 

So . . . is "Ice climbing a stupid sport???" Does this extend to winter mountaineering? Discuss!

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Posted

Of course ice climbing is a stupid sport. Just like any other sport, it serves no real purpose except for entertaining us. It not going to stop me though from going out swing tools, get pump, maybe smacking my knuckles, scarying myself and freezing my ass off. cantfocus.gifcantfocus.gif

Posted

a mental self-conversation this weekend while on run of vertical ice, 20 feet above the last pro, which is my second who is at the the belay station.

"Falling would really suck - this would be factor 2 shit."

"Putting in gear would also suck, only 5 more feet to easier terrain."

"So stop thinking, climb and don't fall."

Posted
I think I would climb better if I could selectively shut down certain parts of my brain.

 

You can learn to selectively shut down parts of your brain (in fact you already know how, to some extent)...and you are right, you would climb better. But the real question is .."Would you climb safer?" and that is a really big maybe.

Posted

The stupidity of doing Winter climbing (or anything for that matter) can ussally only be judged after a bit of time has gone by. When your in the moment it can be spectacular or nightmarish. The question is was it a mistake ( or stupid) later.

 

You might go home with an old girlfried you happen to see out in a bar drunk off your ass. Have a great night of sex. and regret it in the morning. Thats stupid.

 

You can have an epic in the winter and after the frost nip, the blisters and the wrenched knee heal you can realize that it was one of the most life affirming and enlightening parts of your life.

 

After a couple of days went by, I'll bet those guys thought that pussing and heading back to the bar was the stupid act.

Posted
Not many can actually shut down their brain. Quiet it down possibly but shut it down?

 

"I'll have what the gentleman on the floor is having"

 

Fight of flight response. Endorphines. Adreniline.

 

RBW I don't want to preach to the chior but, we all automatically have the ability to deal stress; run from a predator, empty stomach, low on blood sugar twisted ankle or not. Parts of the brain automatically shut down to survive the moment. Climbing can elicite the same response. If you stop to think about it, that big cat will probably eat you, your leg will start shaking a you will fail.

 

The trick is to be in the moment and let your mind and body deal with the stress and fear without analysing and over thinking.

Posted

The knees are fine. The frost nip is almost gone - only one fingertip and the great toes remember anything about it. The 4 days of climbing are now a rosy glow, and I'd gladly trade this heated office to be back out NOW.

 

Someone said that the most important asset for a mountaineer was a short memory.

Posted

We are the Lennies of Mice and Men . George represents our society and women our mountains. "Even George cannot guard Lennie from the provocations of a flirtatious women nor predict the consequences of Lennies unswerving obedience to the things George taught him."

Posted
Not many can actually shut down their brain. Quiet it down possibly but shut it down?

 

"I'll have what the gentleman on the floor is having"

 

yeah but wouldn't it be nice if he did shut down partss of his brain, yelrotflmao.gif

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