Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 I have to throw in a fucking few god damned shitty swear words for the man in the photo Sorry we could not link up for brews dude. Body Shop WI6? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2004 Author Posted January 26, 2004 I wouldn't argue the rating of 5 or the other since I never did it..... but whatever. Homey made it look like 3rd class anyway. Quote
Lambone Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 yeah, me neither...I'm just going off WI 6 pics I see in the Canadian Rockies book and they look way sicker. Quote
Dru Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 ...that's about 5 or 10 times the amount of ice that was on it when it got climbed and rated a 6. and you couldn't sneak in from the side then either. is stuff coming back in from being warm and wet? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2004 Author Posted January 26, 2004 I have no idea what is in. I don't know about sneakin in and stuff. Never been up there but this one time. That's a picture of your tall daddy that you did that Medusa thing with. It was pretty warm out.. But today it got colder and if you went tomorrow or the next couple of days it seems like it's gonna shape up better. Quote
Dru Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 well it better shape up good so fern can steal all my secret projects this weekend Quote
daler Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Here is a photo of ICBC with body shop in the conditions the day Tom Bridge put the anchors in(1996 i think). I'm not sure if this was the 1st ascent or not. I had led it earlier in similar conditions but just traversed left through the weakness to ICBC(I called it Side Street at the time). There is Ok gear on the traverse. No matter what, the climb is not sustained enough to carry a grade 6 rating and one can tie off the tree for pro so the spice factor is not there. WI 5 Dale Quote
Dru Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 i haven't climbed it but i saw it climbed a few yrs back and the ice don climbed up in rays pic was not there at all just a skinny phone pole sized pillar coming straight down from the bolts to the ground. perhaps it was wi 6 in those conditions which is what the leader told me anyways. i actually do not know if those were the fa conditions or not but had heard it was independent pillar when first lead so i assumed so. if not then dale do you think you make the fa or what? when did tom do it? Quote
daler Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Dru, who knows? I just always figured such obvious ice had already been climbed. There were no scratch marks on the rock, but in thick years a v-thread at the top would not be out of the question. But most likely the traverse into ICBC had not been done. It is a great moderate mixed varition and is a great pitch if done all the way from the bottom of "body shop?/side street" to the top of ICBC. The full mixed variation I will dubb "side street". I have also TRd the rock all the way to the top strait above the ice but never had the time or energy to bolt it. cheers and happy climbing dale Quote
Don_Serl Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 captn, nice photo, tks. get any from lower on the pitch? was great to finally put a face to the name. u too, iceguy. and tks for the juicy words - u got a reputation to keep up, man. plus THE legend himself! what a turnout! too bad u missed calgary getting whomped sat nite. body shop was gr5 for sure, no way it's a 6 (i don't think i can lead that hard). that's doing it the easiest way (generally a good plan): good stemming and good pro on the left for the 1st half, then on the right for the top half (pro-ing the tree, with a cpl screws to protect the exit). have to call it 5+ to pull the front the whole way - it's pretty damn steep, and the ice wasn't all that good on the face of the column. it could easily have been 6 when tom (and/or others) did it, if it were way narrower the way dru describes. daler's photo looks medium-fat; i've seen it much leaner. which brings up the interesting discussion of how to grade these things. the grade is supposed to be the 'technical' grade, dealing with the difficulty of movement, but in the real world the whole PITCH gets graded, so length, the pump factor, the difficulty of setting a bunch of screws on a long hard pitch, drag, weight, etc come into it. that seems fine, and more informative to people interested in the grade, but i'm convined there is a lot of ice out here on the coast that is "technically" gr 6, but that gets "5" or "5+" cuz the pitches aren't big, heinous things like u find in the rockies. tom bridge went against that trend, and if he felt it was 6 technically, he called it so. i followed a cpl of his "6's", and they were certainly WAY hard technically (mister freeze, in particular stands out in my mind) - but do they stand as "6's" in the new edition of the guide? i don't see why not, personally... opinions? daler, when did u do side street? with whom? and did u u just tool the break, or was there ice on the wall below at all? and when/with whom did u do "dale's route" [far left, lower tier, marble canyon]? janez, graeme, and i climbed that earlier saturday, and i thought it was a REALLY hard lead (by janez, not me): very delicate foot- and axe-work to not knock everything down, dubious pro once you're off the "dihedral" column, tricky tool placements to get up under the roof, a hard physical pull thru the overhang, a vertical pump to get gear above the roof. very full value indeed! [maybe PM me the details, if u prefer?] we climbed closet secrets on sunday, in very exciting shape too. only gets gr4, but there'd be a lot of gr5 leaders who'd be backing off the crux on the 1st pitch - pretty thinly iced, and dubious pro. there's a bolt to protect the exit of the crux, but u gotta get there... what a superb location! the closet is just awesome, and with shreddie hanging in the background, it's just a joy to be there, all day. good ice, guys. the warm weather dropped a few things (most notably the approach pitches to synchronicity), but stuff is still "in" really well, in general. cheers, Quote
Dru Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Back in the day Bart Paull and or Miles Smartt got some chest beating printed in the Hot Flashes section of Climbing mag - i think it was the same issue which reported Craig Leubben's 2nd ascent of Lucille if that helps anyone - and he reported making "the presumed second ascent of an unnamed WI6 in Marble Canyon" - is this Body shop? Has anyone ever repeated or found Hangin on a Heartbeat WI6+ 120m in the YBR descent gully?? Pix? Quote
Dru Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 (edited) Although Dale can name it whatever he wants - I think "Side Swipe" would be a more appropriate name than "Side Street". And of course you could call the project going straight up from the top of Body Shop "No Fault" cause you don't traverse off left on the break Edited January 26, 2004 by Dru Quote
Don_Serl Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 dru, janez and i walked down past the waterfall that forms "hangin on a heartbeat" while descending from an unplanned night out after climbing YBR and missing the correct descent in the dusk (a warm nite beside a fire... well, for janez at least) the waterfall is in the "north gully" [see central BC rock, p124]. i seriously doubt the 120m figure, but it's a lot bigger than a single 60m pitch, and it falls fully free [like, waaaay out from the wall] for about half its height. thought provoking! cheers, Quote
daler Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Hi Don, Good to see you out gettin after it. I climbed "side street" with my wife(girl friend at the time)kristie.Can't remember the year. we just tooled across the break- very easy hooks. M5 or 6. Can't remember the gear. Also had to place rock gear at the start as body shop was not touching down. Definately climbed body shop before Bart and Miles because I remember seeing that write up in the mags and having a chuckle. Tom climbed the route with Cliff Palmer(long belay for cliff as tom hand drilled the bolts. I climbed it with John Ramuta(ask him the year) the day after tom put in the bolts and Bart and miles a week or so later. As I stated it was in similar conditions to the above picture I posted. Maybe a bit thinner. At the time it was solid grade 5+ but could easily be given a 6 by many. The route left of the dihedral I lead sometime in the late 90s -can't remember, with Kristie and my friends craig and Phoebe. I placed a couple of blades in the overlap which I thought were Ok, but have since been removed because they were loose(freeze thaw???) As far as grades I think Lilloet has plenty of grade 6 lines. Shriek of the sheep in early season is a grade 6. When I climbed the Syncrotron, Derik Andreoli and I took a grade 6- line. Mossy balls is grade 6 in thin conditions. Its all relative. if you call Carls berg a 5 then mossy is a 6. If you call mossy a 5 then Carls berg is a 4 and ICBC is a 3( not) and the Dihedral a 2( not ) I wish I was in Lilloett as we speak. In my opinion it is a great Ice climbing destination if you are willing to get after it. later, dale Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2004 Author Posted January 26, 2004 I did get about 14 shots of you on that climb. I'll post some here later tonight. THey are on my home computer. I did see the game down in Cache Creek at the greek place. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2004 Author Posted January 26, 2004 While others might be stroking their egos about ice ratings I am going to post some photos. Quote
cracked Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Are you allowed to grab the tree? Or does that make it WI4? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2004 Author Posted January 26, 2004 (edited) asdddddddddddddd Edited January 26, 2004 by Cpt.Caveman Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2004 Author Posted January 26, 2004 crackedhead, I overheard one of them talking about West Coast Bushwacking. I did not witness tree grabbing. Quote
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