Help me plan my summer...

[willstrickland]

Cubicle-farm finally gettin' to ya TimL? getting wistful over your 10 months off? Oh, I see you're in advertising...that explains alot. Don't need no haters...

 

[ 04-17-2002, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

[TimL]

 

 

[ 04-17-2002, 01:17 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

[chris_w]

You might want to take Colchuck b-rock off your list. They will be replacing the bridges on 8 mile road this summer. I don't know if you can hike around them or not. I think they close either June 15 or July 15.

[Bronco]

I haven't heard of any bird closures at Index (ever), I'd say hit it in the middle of the week to avoid crowds like any other good crag and give it a couple of days to dry out after a good rain, unless you want to experience "authentic" Index climbing.

 

[ 04-17-2002, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

[specialed]

Canadian Rockies. I've never been in the summer but I'm goin'. Alpine Ice, long days solo on moderate alpine rock, long, difficult adventurous bolted routes. And go to the Bugs. And do the FA's like Dru says. Yeah Dog!

[willstrickland]

Yeah, I dig where you guys are comin' from, but remember...I've never done those classic routes and while FAs are great, the value-for-time factor puts my interests in the classics.

 

Isn't there an alternate way to get into the Colchuck area? Does that bridge crap mean that I need to take the snow creek wall, Stuart, and the rest off my list as well?

[erik]

quote:

---

Originally posted by chris_w:

You might want to take Colchuck b-rock off your list. They will be replacing the bridges on 8 mile road this summer. I don't know if you can hike around them or not. I think they close either June 15 or July 15.

---

yup that are is closed...gonner!!! dont go back there....no sireee, the MAN has shut it down.....

 

july 15.....gotta get atleast one month of ransom money.....

[ScottP]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bronco:

I haven't heard of any bird closures at Index (ever), I'd say hit it in the middle of the week to avoid crowds like any other good crag and give it a couple of days to dry out after a good rain, unless you want to experience "authentic" Index climbing.

---

I almost got my scalp ripped off my skull by a raptor while dicking around just left of the start of the arch pitch on the Golden Arch. She/He was mighty pissed when I turned a corner on the ledge and interrupted some nest sitting. Probably will be some closures some day.

Anyway, I ditto the middle of the week thing if you want to do the classics at Index.

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by specialed:

Canadian Rockies. I've never been in the summer but I'm goin'. Alpine Ice, long days solo on moderate alpine rock, long, difficult adventurous bolted routes. And go to the Bugs. And do the FA's like Dru says. Yeah Dog!

---

Soloing alpine rock in the Rockies = Russian roulette on choss piles.

[ScottP]

quote:

---

Originally posted by willstrickland:

Isn't there an alternate way to get into the Colchuck area? Does that bridge crap mean that I need to take the snow creek wall, Stuart, and the rest off my list as well?

---

You could go in through the Snow Lake trail to access Colchuck. It is a bit longer, but doable. Along the way is, of course, Snow Creek Wall and you could do the South Face of Prusik Peak since you would also pass it along the way.

 

The access to the N Ridge of Stuart can be done from the south via the Teanaway River Road/Ingalls Pass approach (see Ingalls Peak in the Nelson guide). Many people do it this way. There are some logistical concerns, but they aren't insurmountable.

[willstrickland]

Thanks Scott, that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for...3 climbs, 1 approach, all classic.

[rayborbon]

Will,

 

I recommend approaching for stuart via the Teanaway if the other way is closed. JUst like scott sez.

 

As for doing Prusik it is a must do. Colchuck Balanced Rock is a long ways to hike in from SNow Creek Wall. Go light! Or you will suffer..

 

The entire area around Colchuck Lake is stellar and should not be missed.

[DonnV]

Consider tossing in Backbone Ridge on Dragontail on that Enchantments approach.

[DonnV]

Couple of other thoughts. Nooksack Tower (couple of route choices) followed by a climb of the Price Glacier (Price would be in better shape later on). Spectacular area. You'd need to bike or hitch a ride several miles back to your car, but it's done all the time.

 

Another great hard man loop would be to do the NE Face of Redoubt via Depot Creek, then descend and traverse to the base of the North Buttress of Bear. I've never done that traverse but it looks feasible. The normal Bear bivy site is close enough to stash most of your gear ahead of time (or pick it up later) and do the climb light if you wanted. You'd again come out with a few miles of road to get back to your car.

 

And, obviously, if you have the patience to keep running down the Sherpa glacier, you could spend quite a while doing a number of worthwhile routes on the north side of Stuart.

[willstrickland]

Alright the deal:

 

Will be leaving Yos sometime after the harsh heat descends...mid July or therabouts. PLanning on heading to Index, L-worth, N Cascades, Colchuck Lake area, and Squish. Mainly looking to do superclassic stuff at all grades (well, not .14 but say up to about .12). Got the Cascade Select...the seasons/when to climb don't do me much good form that book. With bird closures etc, I need you guys/gals input. Interested in doing stuff like N Ridge Stuart, ROTC, Outerspace, W Face of Colchuck B-rock, Girth Pillar, Grand Wall, etc. Some alpine ice stuff would be cool too. Obviously looking to maximize our climbing while minimizing approach times etc, but we're not too averse to long approaches. We'd like to get a couple of climbs out of the long approaches anyway.

 

So you could help me by recommending stellar routes, and a rough agenda...like do I hit Squish first and then work down through WA to miss nesting closures, or hit some stuff going up and others going back? The bird closures, and the bridge stuff going on, as well as my non-NW local expereince have me at a loss. Thanks in advance.

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by willstrickland:

Alright the deal:

 

Will be leaving Yos sometime after the harsh heat descends...mid July or therabouts. PLanning on heading to Index, L-worth, N Cascades, Colchuck Lake area, and Squish. Mainly looking to do superclassic stuff at all grades (well, not .14 but say up to about .12). Got the Cascade Select...the seasons/when to climb don't do me much good form that book. With bird closures etc, I need you guys/gals input. Interested in doing stuff like N Ridge Stuart, ROTC, Outerspace, W Face of Colchuck B-rock, Girth Pillar, Grand Wall, etc. Some alpine ice stuff would be cool too. Obviously looking to maximize our climbing while minimizing approach times etc, but we're not too averse to long approaches. We'd like to get a couple of climbs out of the long approaches anyway.

 

So you could help me by recommending stellar routes, and a rough agenda...like do I hit Squish first and then work down through WA to miss nesting closures, or hit some stuff going up and others going back? The bird closures, and the bridge stuff going on, as well as my non-NW local expereince have me at a loss. Thanks in advance.

---

You should plan on taking your wall gear to Nelson, hooking up with some Kootenay bud then putting up some Grade VI FAs in the Valhallas or Leaning Towers.

[TimL]

 

 

[ 04-17-2002, 01:17 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]