Doctorb Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 So, I was thumbing through his new book, and find a picture with a caption claiming he and his buds did the first winter ascent of Howse Peak. Sure, their route was sick, and they didn't use jumars, but IMHO, it takes a supreme dick to deny that M16 was not a valid ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 I don't know what the date of the House/Blanchard/Backes ascent, but the Gadd et all was on Dec 5, so technically that ain't winter. He may be making that claim because M16 didn't summit the peak? Either way, to not acknowledge the badass M16 is weak ego territory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 i don't think so. they are the first team actually to summit via that face. that's for one. second, noone was plucked by helicopter off the face. team "brotherhood" did not go all the way to the top, that's for one. second- the articles that followed.... i mean give me a fucking brake. it was like "while i was jumaring up i was looking at the pitch and maybe only 10 people in the world could do it!" it was kind of wankfest. i don't think Steve had much to do with it, but that's the part of the deal. i know will and by no means he is megalomaniac. as the matter of fact it might be one of the hardest alpine routes on this side of the pond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 Here's a link that might interest you...Semple's TR from that ascent http://www.scottsemple.com/editorial/under_the_influence.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 Uh, thanks for wasting my time with that link. I wonder why that wasn't published? Uh, thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 WTF are you talking about Gnibmilc? You're not making sense dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 that text was published in alpinist #3. there were several parts missing though. i think the web version makes more sense. there were some very nice pictures in alpinist. will had some great shots from the climb too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 WTF are you talking about Gnibmilc? You're not making sense dude. sorry. what i meant to say was "cooooool!" great article, well written, ton's of insight into head pace, the feeling after a real tough climb for someone's ability, a good explaination of the "line", subtle testestrone laden yelping, young/old bonding, etc. An extremely good link, Will. I don't get the mags anymore, just buy the Alpinist for freinds as gift(s) and read the occasional old or very old mag...you know that phase when you don't care to read the mags anymore... That was a really neat way to change the topic of bashing Will Gadd to a respectful and entertaining accolade. sorry for the confusion and thanks for calling me on the lame post and yes, I owned the real Alpinist article (gave my copy to my 4 year old niece) and was looking for confirmation that the article was edited in a slightly less than flattering way, but didn't really know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 1, 2004 Share Posted January 1, 2004 This mountain has been climbed on in winter a number of times. Some dude that I was climbing in the Rockies with last summer has done a route in winter on it. I dont think it was one of these 2 but whatevah. It doesnt have to go to the true summit to be a route. THat has been acknowledged... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 actually the caption says "first ascent of Howse peak" nothing about winter. once again stupid Mountaineers Books photo editors triumph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 strictland, whats up this this statement,"...was on Dec 5, so technically that ain't winter"...? Since when is early december in Canada not winter? whats up with Will not updating his web site in a month...sheesh what a slacker. he must be off climbing somewhere...how dumb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 "Winter" ascents are only valid under Calendar winter which starts at the equinox and continues until the solstice. Early Dec can have little or no snow and no avvy hazxard making it not true winter conditions. In Scotland you can make a winter ascent at any time of year as long as the route is covered with snow or hoarfrost and the temperature is at or below freezing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 strictland, whats up this this statement,"...was on Dec 5, so technically that ain't winter"...? Since when is early december in Canada not winter? Doctor B said they (Gadd et all) claimed the first winter ascent. It seemed to me that such a claim was being made because the House/Backes/Blanchard ascent didn't go to the summit (it actually appears that it was the publisher who goofed that one, see Dru's post above). That was kinda silly IMO, so I figured you could just as easily call BS on them because Dec 5 is not "winter". Dec is winter conditions in my book, but on the calendar it's not winter. I couldn't climb any of that shizzle anyway so cheers to all of 'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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