Canadian Kevin McLane Presentation

[SEF]

Kevin McLane, climber, guidebook author and publisher, will give a slide presentation this evening at the Mountaineers at 7 PM. Some very fine and classic Cascade Climbs are in his books (on both sides of the border). Come check it out. Free.

[AJ]

I went last night. Good slides, interesting insight, and even some good ideas for routes not in the guide. He let out the secret on some Squamish area ice. Also, previews of Don Serl's upcoming (yeah, right) Waddington Guide. It was a little long but well worth it for us armchair types. Kudos to Kevin for coming down and also to the Mountaineers for sponsoring the event.

[wotan_of_ballard]

An interesting insight at the show was that the 158 climbs were selected from about 250 routes. This is why I've been disappointed in climb quality up there compared to those in Nelson's Guides, which selects only about 1 in 10 out of the 3 volumes in Beckey's guides.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by wotan of ballard:

An interesting insight at the show was that the 158 climbs were selected from about 250 routes. This is why I've been disappointed in climb quality up there compared to those in Nelson's Guides, which selects only about 1 in 10 out of the 3 volumes in Beckey's guides.

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What a load of BS, there is a lot more than 250 climbs up here, the 158 were selected from a larger list of 250 proposed, not a total of 250 technical climbs in SW BC.

[rayborbon]

All those BC mountains suck butt

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by rayborbon:

All those BC mountains suck butt

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I pee on your butt

[rayborbon]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

I pee on your butt

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I pee in your butt

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by rayborbon:

I pee in your butt

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Sign seen in a Mens toilet: DO NOT THROW BUTTS IN THE URINALS - IT MAKES THEM SOGGY AND HARD TO LIGHT.

[gregm]

quote:

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Originally posted by rayborbon:

I pee in your butt

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i hate to say this raybut i think that means you're gayof course you'll likely sneernow that we all know you're queerso paint your nails with pink lacquer'cause you're a fat fudge packer

so ends this pretty sonnetnow i think i'll puke and vomit

[ 04-12-2002: Message edited by: gregm ]

[Country_Jake]

Do you mean full throttle or part of the 30%.... soap dropers.....

[rayborbon]

quote:

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Originally posted by gregm:

i hate to say this raybut i think that means you're gayof course you'll likely sneernow that we all know you're queerso paint your nails with pink lacquer'cause you're a fat fudge packer

so ends this pretty sonnetnow i think i'll puke and vomit

[ 04-12-2002: Message edited by: gregm ]

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Greg the only trio of Fudgepackers is the Three Amigos -MtnPhil AlpineDave and CouloirGreg

[wotan_of_ballard]

Dru, sorry if I misunderstood about the nature of the 250(or if kevin did not state clearly). what would be a more accurate number of alpine climbs meeting the criteria ?

[dberdinka]

Maybe this was beat into the ground a long time ago..but Wotan's got me thinking

As excellent as Mr. Nelson's first book was, the second is by all means the worst "select" guide book I've ever seen. What is all that crap? and how did it get selected? The intros were never proof-read and seem to be lifted in chunks directly from the first. Worst of all whats with the REI model doing the hanging rappel of Pinnacle Peak? where's his pack? or is he going superlight?

So to compare the Nelson's 1 -to- Becky's 10 ratio you'd need to take Fairly's old guide, count em up, add a few more and do your math.

Dru, you going to handle that?

[layton]

Mr. Wotang of Bollard,I'd like to know what the climbs you thought were crappy outta the SW B.C. book?

[wotan_of_ballard]

Please don't misunderstand or distort my original point. I think the organization and photos of Alpine Select are excellent. Kevin McLane did a labor of love, but perhaps the "Lake Wobegone effect" "where every child is above average" has occurred to some extent. I have not done a "crappy" climb that is listed in Alpine Select. I have done several "average" climbs, I expected a minimum of "above average " from a "select" book. Perhaps it's my expectations that were too high .

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by wotan of ballard:

Please don't misunderstand or distort my original point. I think the organization and photos of Alpine Select are excellent. Kevin McLane did a labor of love, but perhaps the "Lake Wobegone effect" "where every child is above average" has occurred to some extent. I have not done a "crappy" climb that is listed in Alpine Select. I have done several "average" climbs, I expected a minimum of "above average " from a "select" book. Perhaps it's my expectations that were too high .

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Which climbs did you think were "average" then?

 

Nelsons book includes walk ups, winter routes etc.

 

KMs book is mostly focussed on summer rock climbs, and a few ice climbs, within weekend access range of Vancouver, that he had good photos of. That reduces things drastically compared to the number of routes Nelson had available. For instance there are amazing routes on Judge Howay that he had no good photos of the mtn, so he did not include. Ditto the north face of Aragorn, f'rinstance. Or, he didnt include any routes on the Illusions, because he thought the bushwack was too long to get in there and do a route in a weekend.

[erden]

After his slide show, Kevin explained that he chose the climbs in the Alpine Select book and the slides that he showed specifically to provide a subset of climbs to be accessible from Vancouver on a weekend jaunt, no more.

 

If more details and farther climbs are what some of you had in mind, you should be willing to seek that information from additional sources.

 

I believe Kevin was very approachable, well informed and certainly inspiring to hear. I have recently moved to the area, and the Alpine Select certainly provides me with a good starter list.

 

Erden.