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jja

Lillooet Photos 12/6, 12/7

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I too saw the line on Yak. Made necro turn the car around actaully. Unfortunately the lower slabs were covered in unconsolidated pow pow so getting to the ice would be scary to say the least. Looked pretty mellow, but long.

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I agree that Shriek is a great climb. I think it is probably the best route in the area, but I do think is usually harder than 4+.

 

Off to the Canadian rockies for 12 days.

 

Adios suckas bigdrink.gif

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Jealous the_finger.gif

 

My vote for the three best Lilooet Routes would be Shriek, Loose Lady, and Carlsberg. Based on pumpyness and scare factor. bigdrink.gif

 

The Tube was fun, but too short to make the top three. But there are still lots of routes that I have yet to get on....

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Lambone said:

But there are still lots of routes that I have yet to get on....

 

Need a belay for shreddie and the theft?

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By all accounts Red wall Wanderers and Tre's Burly are better than anything listed so far. Not that I did either of them...

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jja said:

 

Need a belay for shreddie and the theft?

 

You know I'm a fat guy right? You sure you can handle it? bigdrink.gif

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Red Wall Wanderer is an awsome route, 6 pitches if it's all in with the third the giant curtain crux. I got rope gunned up it 3 years ago and would love to go back and do it with a little style this time. For sure the best thing I've been on in Lillooet.

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Dru said:

By all accounts Red wall Wanderers and Tre's Burly are better than anything listed so far. Not that I did either of them...

tres hardly forms, maybe this year? how do i get to red wall wonders, i tried to find it once and i couldn't. maybe it wasn't there? any betta? is tres visible from the road high on the right side of the canyon (forgot the name of that creek)?

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The approach for RWW is the same as for tres burly, just continue up the gully / drainage for another 45 minutes or so, until the cliffs and trees on the left open up with a steep slope through a cleft in the cliff system (there is a big tree about halfway up the slope). Go to the top of this slope, and only now will you see the route to your right. The whole approach took us about 2hrs, with a couple of mistakes.

 

I've been told by my partner at the time that you can see RWW from the top of tres burly.

 

By the way, the crux curtain has a bolted overhanging rock start if you choose. It starts behind the curtain in a little cave thing, then meets the ice about 1/3 of the way up the pitch. Don't know if this has been done yet, but I remember seeing the draws hanging from the roof, and thinking omfg !!

 

First two pitches are 3/4, then the 5 curtain, then another pitch of 4. The last two pitches weren't in when we were there. I remember gilles had a copy of R+I or climbing with the route and approach beta.

 

Gilles moved back to france last year, but maybe he remembers more than me if you want more beta.

gilles_vandenbeuck@yahoo.com

 

Edited by jja

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RWW, Playin Hooky, Tres Burly and Sweet Cinnamon are all in either Copper or Cinnamon Creek. Look on the ice map already!

 

As for me - this year I wanna do Twilight Tiers if it comes in thumbs_up.gif 7 pitches all 3 and 3+ with no slog approach sounds like fun. I'd like to find Duffy's Delight too but even Lyle doesn't really know where that one is cause it almost never forms.

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Dru said:

RWW, Playin Hooky, Tres Burly and Sweet Cinnamon are all in either Copper or Cinnamon Creek. Look on the ice map already!

 

Sweet Cinnamon is in Cinnamon Ck. The others are in Copper Ck, sortof opposite Loose Lady. Tres Burly had reasonable amount of ice, but I don't know what it looks like 'in' so I don't know how much more it gets.

 

 

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Just to humor myself, but how is Shreddie approached? Someone told me it was mixed.

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twilight teirs is right of the landslide and more or less right above the bridge. it doesnt form often and it is dangereous if ity suddenly collapses which it did once nearly killing people.

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TimL said:

Just to humor myself, but how is Shreddie approached? Someone told me it was mixed.

 

climb up into "the closet". you can also climb closet secrets 4+ on the left.

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