RICHARD_CILLEY Posted November 13, 2003 Share Posted November 13, 2003 Did a new top rope off the chains of the 5.9at Clems holler. Quality.Probably at least 11d. try it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted November 13, 2003 Share Posted November 13, 2003 Dick Cilley lives! I still remember my formative days in Leavenworth, running around with an equally inept buddy TRing all the 5.3s we could find. More than once you'd walk up offering to sell us nuts, cams whatever out of the back of your van. I bought my first guidebook (stapled together blue-covered Leavenworth Guide) from you. As teenagers without much clue about what climbing was all about, I think you lifestyle mistified us at the time. Way to keep sending! Darin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 Is it left of Gunrack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted November 14, 2003 Author Share Posted November 14, 2003 I think thats what the 9 is called. Its to the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 Will the real Dick Cilley please stand up?? Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 RICHARD_CILLEY said: I think thats what the 9 is called. Its to the right. Thin seam that runs through the roof? If so, nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 slap...the seam ends one to two moves below the roof which has two good positve holds and then big moves over the lip...needs another anchor to prevent rope scrapeage. fun roof problem...almost got it myself..katie brown action figure was the tentative name... the corn licker corner to the right is awesome both routes would be worthy additions to the all ready fine sporto wall...when do you wanna powerup the ole twocycle?? fukin stellar weather wednesday..... and today at disVantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 One of the funniest names at Hueco Tanks is "Suck In Dick", and the crater story. You're a legend, Dick (if it's really you ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted November 15, 2003 Share Posted November 15, 2003 RICHARD_CILLEY said: Did a new top rope off the chains of the 5.9at Clems holler. Quality.Probably at least 11d. try it! Too easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted November 20, 2003 Author Share Posted November 20, 2003 ..At your request.In the prehistory of Hueco,Sherman and I were there alone a week.On the 7th day some El Paso locals came out.They showed us 1 of their proj.After watching the crew flail awhile,I jumped on.I pulled the key hold to pec level while sucking my hips into the wall.As my fingers touched the finishing jug,I explained to the crowd that all u have to do is suck in.At that instant the hold broke sendig spotters running and me onto my back amongst the boulders.For me it will always be the Turtleback problem because its shaped like the inside of a turtleshell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 20, 2003 Share Posted November 20, 2003 RICHARD_CILLEY said: ..At your request.In the prehistory of Hueco,Sherman and I were there alone a week.On the 7th day some El Paso locals came out.They showed us 1 of their proj.After watching the crew flail awhile,I jumped on.I pulled the key hold to pec level while sucking my hips into the wall.As my fingers touched the finishing jug,I explained to the crowd that all u have to do is suck in.At that instant the hold broke sendig spotters running and me onto my back amongst the boulders.For me it will always be the Turtleback problem because its shaped like the inside of a turtleshell. Most excellent! That is a classic corridor problem in the gym! That is a wicked lock on a mean scoop with a bad crater. V6 was the top of my game in '96, and I couldn't even get close to that one. I did get Bansai Knife, though. YOU THE MAN!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 20, 2003 Share Posted November 20, 2003 RICHARD_CILLEY said: Did a new top rope off the chains of the 5.9at Clems holler. Quality.Probably at least 11d. try it! Hideous! (That's something you used to say a bunch when we was getting drunk down in Joshua Tree). I wanted to ask you....to the best of your knowledge, is Gutbuster unrepeated? Also, I noticed that Doin' the Dishes is graded 12b in the new guide. Does that sound right to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted November 20, 2003 Share Posted November 20, 2003 doin the dishes. 12b? yeah and in the new guidebook as retro pointed out awhile ago...crack of dooom is now 10b...bwahahaha. disvantage was kewl today.......... actually climbed a sport climb there that had a hand crack at the start with a bolt next to it and then up higher above a pedestal around the crux level there was a tcu placement with no bolt next to it..if you blow the long reach over the roof splat...but if you have a long reach much easier.....wtf is up with that shit...stooooooopid! the 30' route has three bolts and then the anchor...other 30' routes next to it have four and five bolts...why the difference. stoopid crack heads is all me and capp could imagine would ever create such idiotic bolt placements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted November 21, 2003 Author Share Posted November 21, 2003 Dont know if anyone else has done the Gutbuster.If someone has,they can say so here.Havent done Doin Dishes in Decades.Holds get smaller,but shoes get better.I think the same weekend I did the Gutbuster I did the lieback seam at the original Zekes Boulder.When I've shown it to kids who rediscover the boulder it hadnt even occured to them.Someone should get on it.If people dont spread out and try different climbs we lose them to the vegetation. On that note, I toproped Giant size Baby Thing off the Sloe Children anchors the other day.Excellent and hard.More like 11d. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granitesloper Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 Dick, what "Zekes BOulder" are you speaking of? http://www.0friction.com/image.php?image_id=1395 is a picture of the boulder that i have in mind. I stop by it sometimes. I always figured some1 climbed it way back when. Could you give a little more info on Zekes boulder or any other goldbar related shtuff? tanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted November 24, 2003 Author Share Posted November 24, 2003 Thats it.The seam is the dihedral visible on the left wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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