Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
glassgowkiss

skaha and french ratings

Recommended Posts

hey, i did buy a guide for skaha. climbed there before a couple of times. i just noticed the author is using YDS, you know 5.somethin (fine) and for sport routes french scale. now, maybe i just had bad luck, but the routes were WAAAAY off as far as french scale. i mean "blade runner" 7a+ hellno3d.gif, wings od desire 6c+????? hellno3d.gif, wings of steel 7b+??. i mean 7b+ at any decent crag in europe is no-giveaway. if that route is 7b+, churning at smith would be 8a or 8a+!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm. I thought you recently argued in another thread on the subject that ratings really don't matter and especially the soft ones in Canada... cry.gifrolleyes.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
glassgowkiss said:

hey, i did buy a guide for skaha. climbed there before a couple of times. i just noticed the author is using YDS, you know 5.somethin (fine) and for sport routes french scale. now, maybe i just had bad luck, but the routes were WAAAAY off as far as french scale. i mean "blade runner" 7a+ hellno3d.gif, wings od desire 6c+????? hellno3d.gif, wings of steel 7b+??. i mean 7b+ at any decent crag in europe is no-giveaway. if that route is 7b+, churning at smith would be 8a or 8a+!

 

I don't know nuthin about french grades frown.gif so this might be off topic.

 

Howie Richardson's Skaha Rockclimbs (2003) has sport & trad routes listed in YDS, 'cept he calls it Yosemite Dumbass System. I guess he recognizes the limitations of a grading system.

 

He has Blade Runner listed as 5.12a, fer instance. Richardson's previous edition had French for sport and +/- for gear routes.

 

Richardson says:

Grades will never be anything more than a rough subjective indicator of difficulty.

 

and this:

My intent is to try and avoid sand-bagging a first time visitor.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

is that French system still in the new edition of the

richardson guide that came out a few months back?

 

French grades don't mean much to me, nor I think many of the

people who climb at Skaha. But if they are going to be in the

book they should at least be accurate. You are probably one

of few local people with the international experience to make

the call of accurate french grades in that book. Are you

going to set Howie straight? thumbs_up.gif

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why isn't this n te rock climbing thread?

 

FYI, Wings of Desire is listed in Richardson (2003) as 5.11b & Wings of Steel as 5.12d. Looks like 5.11b is between French 6C, 6C+. 12d is approximately equivalent to 7C so it looks like the rating on Wings of Steel was listed wrong(?) in your guide.

 

I don't climb at that level but seems that Richardson gave a reasonable answer to why he listed the ratings as given.

Edited by scrambler

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scrambler said:

Why isn't this n te rock climbing thread?

 

FYI, Wings of Desire is listed in Richardson (2003) as 5.11b & Wings of Steel as 5.12d. Looks like 5.11b is between French 6C, 6C+. 12b is approximately equivalent to 7C so it looks like the rating on Wings of Steel was listed wrong(?) in your guide.

 

Ummm...French 7b equates to 12b...7c is 12d...and as bob is saying 7b+ in buoux or or ceuse is bitchass hard....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

fucking a 7b+ is hard! and the reason i didn't put this topic into rock climbing "forskin" (i mean forum) is because it is spray. grin.gif

so anyway, the points i am making are:

too many places with soft grades

don't use rating system that you don't know

churning in the wake= about 7c, darkness hard 7b+/7c, rude boys= 8a, chain reaction, go dog go about 7b (hard)

time's up 7c+.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what's up donkey? didn't catch that one? why don't you keep shpunking some shelaq syrup load onto your keyboard?

btw, maybe he used french canadian rating system in the guidebook? yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i am going there tomorrow... slowly mind you.. as we are fly fishing all the way there. i will let you know what i think of the ratings. i have climbed in europe, so i guess i have some understandings of the ratings, though i will not be able to fill you in on the 8+ categories. smirk.gifbigdrink.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×