Smith Classics

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Toxic, Tragic Plight, Overboard, Heresy, Bloodshot, Blue Lite Spesh, Up For Slabs ... some good 11s. All the 10s at Smithy are suck, and Glassgowkiss is right; all the really good shit starts at 5.12. Get out and punish yourself and get strong!

[texplorer]

JayB I don't know what you climb but here's my top pics.

Sport:

.6 Super Slab

.7 10 gallon buckets

.8 West Face Variation of Monkeyface (bring aiders for A0)

.9 Revelations

.10a Phoenix

.10b BBQ the pope

.10c Screamin Yellow Zonkers

.10d Moons of Pluto

.11a Pure Palm

.11b Vomit Launch

.12a Heinous Cling (first pitch)

I don't climb harder than this so ask glasgow or DFA for harder stuff.

 

Trad

.7 Moscow

.8 Peking

.9 Moonshine Dihedral

.10a Cruel Sister

.10b Blood clot

.10c Prometheus

.11a Master Looney

.11b Wartley's Revenge

[wrench]

super slab is gear route, not a sport route.

 

yes, wherever i may roam is left of asterix pass -- about 100 feet, starts at base of large detached black buttress. there is another, newer ~5 pitch, ~5.8 sport route on Dance of the Lepers called First Kiss. supposed to be pretty sweet, but never been there myself -- don't even know where the wall is.

 

if you do pioneer route on monkey face, do the new line out of the mouth -- a 5.8 traversing pitch that takes you straight to the top. it's way more interesting and airy than the old way up.

 

other recommendation: helter skelter: 10c-ish. extremely runout (but not right off the deck) b/c retro-bolted so someone could get easy access to their project on upper pitch. got an old piton, that i shamefully had to hang on. no one climbs it, not even any chalk on the route when i did it. thus: very interesting!