Cpt.Caveman Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 Does anyone have a recent photo of the NF on Buckner or some first hand knowledge on the size of the schrund gaining the NF of the mountain? Quote
goatboy Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 For what it's worth: I climbed it at this time last year and the schrund itself was bleak (overhanging ice headwall about 20-some feet tall). However, it was very easily bypassed via snowfield just to the left of the rock rib that cleaves the schrund -- traverse left through rock cleaver right at the level of the schrund itself and then rejoin regular NF route about 100 feet up. My friend also bypassed the schrund by climbing what he described as surprisingly easy (5.0) climbing on the rock cleaver itself. In other words, at this time of the year, I imagine that weather would be more of a stopper than the schrund . . . Go for it and tell us how it is!!!!! I hope that's helpful. What happened to the days when people would belligerently write, "Go take a look for yourself!?!?!?!" Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 25, 2003 Author Posted September 25, 2003 goatboy- I understand your response about taking a look for yourself. I can definitely agree with it. Maybe I will maybe I wont. Will I be a cooler guy if I do or dont? I dont really care. Another note is that this is a low snowfall year. Thanks for your input. Quote
Jens Posted September 27, 2003 Posted September 27, 2003 Climbed it about 3 weeks ago. We placed a couple of wired nuts and had to do a little rock climbing. I would imagine their will be a few more rock moves to bypass b.s.? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 28, 2003 Author Posted September 28, 2003 I would not call it in great shape if you are looking for the style of climbing this North Face is usually expected to be in. I am glad I did not waste my time. Danke ! Quote
klenke Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 That's the North Face right now? Bleeeach! Now the peak on the left on the other hand... Hey, Ray, saw your name on the permit sheet (or whatever you call it) in the Marblemount N.P. Ranger Station. Hope it was a-okay for ya whatever you did. Three of us just did the NE Ridge of Triumph. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 29, 2003 Author Posted September 29, 2003 That's the North Face right now? Yes that is what it looked like this weekend. We had fun. I saw some Eric Hoffman going to Triumph. Good objective. We got our climbs in. Hope you had as much fun as us Quote
JoshK Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Ouch...that NF looks awful right now. Nice pic tho. Quote
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