Squamish Route Beta

[Jeff_Savoie]

I don't know if this is the right place for this question but here goes. Has anyone done the last two pitches of the aid route University Wall, on the Chief, in Squamish B.C.. I'd like some beta, I heard some horror story of a long hooking traverse with only scary old bolts for protection.

Any help would be appreciated.Thanks, Jeff

[Cpt.Caveman]

Is the route called UNiversity wall?

[Yos]

Never done the route but all pitches are said to go at C1. Give me a yell if you need a partner, I've had University Wall on my tick list for quite a while.

[DPS]

My partner and his girl did this route and reported the last pitch to be crappy old bolts spaced too far apart to aid without a cheater stick. The other option is to free it.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by danielpatricksmith:

The other option is to free it.

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11d. There is a photo of Hamish Faser freeing this pitch in the Squamish guidebook if you want to try and absorb beta from the picture.

[Travis]

Anyone have any info on U-Wall during or shortly after rain? Is it protected, do the cracks drip, does it run like a raging torent? I usually save aid for non-free climbing days so I'm used to wet as long as it's not too crazy.

I've been trying to get up there myself, so send me a note if you need a partner (or a third?).

[fern]

the roof just below The Tree will do the chinese water torture down the back of your neck for most of the second pitch. The vegetation up there soaks up a lot of water too, so it takes a few dry days before the dripping stops. It's still climbable, but no way would you stay dry. Also you get no sun, so it can be pretty chilly. Watch out for rock and ice fall in that area.