snoboy Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 Ducknut said:I can see how the screamer changes the deceleration and thus the force on the anchor but how do the ripping threads really eat up the energy or just change it into a bunch of smaller impacts spread out in time on the anchor? That's how I understand it. The spreading out over time helps to limit the peak load on the piece. Yates and/or Fish had a bunch of stuff on their site about this. Quote
Beck Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 check fish/tech weenie pages for any definitive independant posts on the internet about protection and pieces. but not to say it's inclusive, but exhaustive, and fed by a bunch of industry testing reps not affiliated to fish products by anything other than their love of climbing safety Quote
ketch Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 Sphinx said: Ketch, a kilonewton is a unit of force, not energy. Saying that is takes two kN of 'energy' to activate the screamer is a senseless statement. Sphinx, You are right. A kilonewton is a measure of force. IE a method of measureing the energy that has been imparted to an object. If we were in an engineering forum I would get all those little details attended to before I published my remarks. The fact remains that it takes a measure of force to rupture each progressive stitching group or pull each nut. That force (the amount of energy imparted to cause 1 kilogram to accelerate at 1 metere per second per second=1n times approximatley 2000) is translated from one state to another in this process. Slowing the falling object while doing so. Quote
Sphinx Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 ketch said: That force (the amount of energy imparted to cause 1 kilogram to accelerate at 1 metere per second per second=1n times approximatley 2000) is translated from one state to another in this process. Just for the sake of argument, force is not energy. Energy is not force. We don't know what force is, all we know is that it accelerates objects.We don't know what energy is either. However, we can differentiate between the two. The climber does work, that is, force times distance on the screamer. That absorbs energy. But saying that force is energy is also meaningless. Quote
chris Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 Yate's has a great deal of information about screamers at their website. Check out www.yatesgear.com. Quote
scrambler Posted September 8, 2003 Author Posted September 8, 2003 Yate's has a great deal of information about screamers at their website. Check out www.yatesgear.com. Yah, aware of this and other web info on LL's. Google rocks! Wanted to hear some actual real life stories. Sinks in better than company brochures. Quote
Coopah Posted September 8, 2003 Posted September 8, 2003 scot'teryx said: Trippy Dude I feel so and Quote
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