Beta on Mt. Moran

[Rodchester]

I am looking for any input on routes on Mt. Moran in the Tetons. I liklely be hauling my two nephews uop the peak, age 12. So I am looking for a very low fifth class 5.0 - 5.5. Maybe even a scramble. (Cl 3-4). Climbing in August of this year.

Thanks!!!

(Please spray on other posts)

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Rodchester:

(Please spray on other posts)

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Why not ask Carlos???

[freeclimb9]

The CMC route is the classic on Moran. The ascent route is also the descent route, so it's a lot of time on a rope and requires rappeling. But if your nephews are strong and bold, it would make a great memory.

[Rodchester]

freeclimb9,

Any idea what the route is rated? Thanks for the input.

[ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

[freeclimb9]

the CMC route is at most 5.5

There is no distinct line demarking the route, but wandering over the face (left of the dike) is much of the same.

Descent is made by a combination of downclimbing and rappelling. The ascent also requires some downclimbing and/or rappelling as you clear a notch before getting on the main face. The approach is most easily made with a canoe.

[mattp]

CMC is a good choice, and Freeclimb is right on. One thing to mention is that on the downclimb you have to climb a steep wall, perhaps 60 feet high and slightly overhanging and probably 5.6 or so, to get back over the Snagglepuss. Some parties leave a rope hanging here. At least that is what I remember.

[mattp]

While home for lunch, I checked the Orgenburger book. He says that the climb out of the notch back up Drizzlepuss (not Snagglepuss)can be 5.7 (straight up) or a 5.5 traverse out rightward.

[Rodchester]

Mattp

What is the name of the Ortenburger book? Is it still in print? Is it just on the tetons? Or others in Wyoming?

Any info appreciated.

[AlpineK]

The name of the book strangely enough is, A Climbers Guide to the Teton Range.

You can't use my copy, but I bet Carlos has one.

[erik]

guide to the teton mtns.....it is still in print and available at most major book stores and climbing shops......the mtneers publish it...

you can borrow mine for 39.95

[mattp]

Rodchester,

Mr. K is right – A Climbers Guide to the Teton Range by Leigh N. Ortenburger, Reynold G. Jackson.

You asked about Mt. Moran, and I believe the CMC is probably the most fun easy route (Skillet Glacier might be worth a look), but you might also be interested in a route I did on Middle Teton many years back, the Chouinard Rib. I did this climb with a party of five, most of whom had no interest in rock climbing, and it was a very enjoyable outing, on good rock. I believe it may have been 2,000 feet high, but was mostly scrambling and we belayed one pitch on a wet slab. It was in the sun the whole way, and there was almost no snow on the route (it faces south).

I've read route reports where others did not think this was a good climb. I'm not sure why -- maybe they were looking for something that was more than a scramble, or maybe route finding is an issue. Anyway, you indicated that you might even look for a scramble, and this is a route that is little more than a scramble but leads to the top of a major Teton Peak (the route tops out right at the summit) and it is probably not crowded.

I'm not sure it is in the current guide (I'm back at work now and can't check), but maybe K or Erik can look it up for you.

[ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: mattp ]

[Rodchester]

Mattp and Erik:

Thanks for the info. I had looked at the Chouinard route in the old Bonney book as well as the SW Ridge. I was kind of thinking of staying away from Garnett Canyon as it can get quite crowded. Never been on Moran or even in the area.

AlpineK, you really have a problem with this Carlos thing, don't you? Get some help man.

Anyway thanks guys.

[AlpineK]

I've been into Moran twice and walking around the north end of the lake really really sucks. Rent a canoe. Its worth the money.

[AlpineK]

I think your the one who's holding the grudge rod/asshole. And I was just trying to be helpfull.

[Rodchester]

AlpineK:

If I am the one holding a grdge then why did you even bring it up? What do you care about who I am friends with? or is this a case of I can dish it out but not take it?

Your funny...

[AlpineK]

Uhm Rod if you notice I was telling you to get a canoe, while you were rippin on me.

[Rodchester]

AlpineK:

"You can't use my copy, but I bet Carlos has one."

This isn't bringing it up? Whose the asshole?

[kevin_page]

"lightning" Rod: 12 year olds might have more fun looking for pieces of a plane full of missionaries that crashed below the skillet glacier back in the 50's. My brother and i did that in about 1966, still lots of big stuff lying around then. Climbing the skillet is a pretty quick way up Moran and a really fast way down since you can start glissading from the top of the mountain.

[mattp]

With luck, maybe you can get a ride to and from the Skillet Glacier route with somebody who is touring the lake with a cooler full of beer. This happened to a friend of mine.

[Rodchester]

Kevin:

With two young ones, I take it the Skillet is a two day climb?

And do can you rent a canoe?

[mattp]

The Skillet Glacier route starts from the shore of Jackson Lake, and it would be at least 5 miles of canoeing. The lake is very large and could be windy. It might not be easy to follow the shoreline. The CMC routes starts from Leigh Lake, and I believe the canoeing would be about half that distance, with a better chance of following the shoreline if it was windy.

[mattp]

This is not "beta" because I have not been there but only looked at my guidebook when I got home from work. But: Skilllet Glacier is said by Ortenburger to be "not a route for beginning climbers inexperienced in the use of a rope and ice axe." The Northeast Ridge, nearby, is noted as a "standard route" for Mt. Moran (it has the little finger sign next to it as does the CMC route)and the text describing the Northeast Ridge describes a plane crash as being one of the scenic attractions on the route. Perhaps Kevin Page climbed that route and descended the Skillet???

[kevin_page]

Rodd, When I was in grade school we were fishing on Jackson Lk. and took a break to search for that plane wreckage. It could'nt have been very far up from the lake. About 20 years later I went back and climbed up and then down the Skillet glacier with a camp near its terminus. We found the wreckage on the way up to the glacier, very grown over and fewer pieces to be seen. The "handle" gets a little bit steep and may have some cracks up high by late summer (we did it in early July). It is frequently skied. I don't remember the NE ridge as being non-technical either, pretty committing for kids. I might take them up the east face of Teewinot since it has an easier descent or up the S. Teton. Your nephews might like one of the shorter rock climbs like the Durrance route on Symmetry Spire too. It looks really cool on the approach which is short, is difficult enough to give them a good sense of accomplishment, 6? pitches to 5.6 if I remember correctly and a walk off. Whatever you do that is alot of responsibility watching 2 young boys every step. Good for you and good luck.