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Posted

What’s the new route story this year? Record weather and aside from a couple alpine routes not much is new. I have heard of only a few new rock routes; however, about a million new ones should have been put up this summer. Where are they? Maybe if there was a New R…….

 

Erik – Spill the beans on your activities this summer. You must be holding out on us.

 

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Posted

yellaf.gif

 

i was gonna say ask slappy and cracky there went big this summer.

 

i had a pathetic one personally only two new routes and no one will ever do them again! cry.gif and dbg seriously rivals s face of prusik for jam cracks.....

 

thou we are moving into cragging season and i have a new slew of brushes!!!!

 

 

Posted
Peter_Puget said:

What’s the new route story this year? Record weather and aside from a couple alpine routes not much is new. I have heard of only a few new rock routes; however, about a million new ones should have been put up this summer.

dude. sooo many killer boulder problems have been sent. rolleyes.gifmoon.gifpitty.gif

Posted

So true...bouldering is the scene these days in fact I heard 20 people were at Zeke's a couple weeks ago. I need to check it out despite that fact that I probably could climb even a V1.

 

With the new guide this has been a Leavenworth year for me I have even bouldered there a few times..the horror!

 

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Posted
Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

hammer_stud.jpg

 

Bolt 'em up; HOO-AHH!

fucking DONT put in wedge type anchors. spend the extra 15 cents and get a 5 part bolt which can easily be removed and replaced using the same hole.

Posted
Peter_Puget said:

Jordop -

 

Draw in your two pitches!

 

Up from the snowpatch at the base of the face to the base of the anrgy-looking dihedral just left of the crest of the buttress in the grey rock. Take a bulldog and a broom cantfocus.gif

 

But I did send the ridge crest on the main peak last month with Steve Harng. 6 pitches, 5.8 Pretty good:

4108_incisor1.jpg

 

Posted
lummox said:

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

hammer_stud.jpg

 

Bolt 'em up; HOO-AHH!

fucking DONT put in wedge type anchors. spend the extra 15 cents and get a 5 part bolt which can easily be removed and replaced using the same hole.

 

BEEP! Wrong-o there lummox, never done it have you? 5 piece bolts are not "easily" removeable. The tip/wedge remains in the hole and is every bit as difficult to remove as a standard wedge anchor. You can drill through it but it sucks. Removal of wedge anchors is not that difficult.

 

It's better just to drill a new hole a few inches away and patch the old one with epoxy and dust. It does not take much skill to seal them off and make them invisible.

 

5-piece bolts do hold far better in soft rock, more surface contact. bigdrink.gif

 

* An extra $0.15? Try closer to an exra $1.25 each.

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