midway direct direct

[leejams]

Wondering about the 2 bolts at the start of this rte. There is a new one and then 1 about a meter below (older) Is the older one a part of damnation coming from below or the original bolt for Midway DD that just hasn't been removed yet?

[chelle]

The only bolts on Damnation I recall are the anchor at the top of the pitch.

[pope]

Ask Jim at promountainsports. Midway Direct Direct used to have a higher bolt. In its current condition, it's probably a deadly lead for a 5.9 climber .

[catbirdseat]

I remember only two bolts for the first hundred feet or so. It's 5.9, but as pope says, really not a climb for a 5.9 climber. I know I would't want to fall on it.

[leejams]

pope said:

Midway Direct Direct used to have a higher bolt.

 

Yeah, my partner noticed where the 2nd bolt used to be, I did not see it though. Still can't figure out the start with the 2 bolts that close together. Also noticed this was rated at 5.8 in nelson't #2 book and prolly so with the 2 bolts, but now 5.9 with just the one.

[erik]

maybe they rebolted ddd again?!

 

[chucK]

I asked about Midway Direct Direct, while back. You may find the responses somewhat helpful.

 

Back then when I climbed it the first (crappy) bolt was there and that was it. Now there's that new shiny one a few feet above it, but sounds like there's still no replacement for the original bolt (hole above).

 

The climb was scary but doable. I actually might have sat there scared until I got so tired I pitched off, but it started to rain and that lit a fire under my ass. I'll bet it's still scary with the new bolt, but at least there's some comfort that the bolt might hold a fall (and the fall would be about 2-3 feet less). I think the climb would be somewhat casual if the bolt hole above still sported a bolt.

[Thinker]

chucK said:

I think the climb would be somewhat casual if the bolt hole above still sported a bolt.

 

Make it so...

[leejams]

chucK said:

I asked about Midway Direct Direct, while back. You may find the responses somewhat helpful.

 

Back then when I climbed it the first (crappy) bolt was there and that was it. Now there's that new shiny one a few feet above it, but sounds like there's still no replacement for the original bolt (hole above).

 

 

Chuck thanx for the info. Pretty much answered my question and seems that older bolt is just trash left hangin on the rock.

[catbirdseat]

Thinker said:

Make it so...

What on earth is that? It looks very interesting. Pro for chopped routes where there are still holes?

[Attitude]

catbirdseat said:

What on earth is that?

Removable anchor bolt

[Thinker]

there are a number of euro routes that have been put up for removable bolts. Two things about them are 1: the holes are sometimes hard to find if the rain has washed off the chalk, and 2: the removable bolts can be difficult (if not impossible) to remove after a significant fall.

[E-rock]

Route setters will sometimes advocate for the use of these things on all new sport routes. But then you realize that said route setters are usually total fucking morons.

[erik]

what happens if they hole becomes filed with crud? whatca gotta clean it out 1st? sketchy dude! are they gonna make a new tool for that?? are ya gonna have to rap clean each route??

 

seems like a dumb idea to have routes set for them. i would think there only real practical application is for designing a ew route. before the final installtion of the fixed gear.

 

 

[mattp]

Thinker said:

the holes are sometimes hard to find ...

 

I'll say. I have twice drilled a hole for which I did not have a bolt, and then gone back several few months later to install the bolt. These were both on rock that was less than vertical, so the holes pointed upward. With rain washing bits of debris down the cliff, the holes had become obscurred so that, on each occasion, I had difficulty locating the hole even though I was standing on exactly the same footholds from which I drilled it!