Red Rocks to Nome

[Jim]

I'm trying to work some climbing into a busy field schedule of September. I'll be in northern CA then outside LasVegas, and then up in Nome, AK.

 

So I'll have a short day to climb at Red Rocks, what should I do? Gotta be 10b or below or I whine too much on the lead.

 

Also - anybody been to Nome? I'll be tromping around the tundra for 10 days but could spend an extra weekend around Nome. Anything interesting to do besides looking for muskox?

[Greg_W]

Darn, I was hoping you would be hiking from Red Rocks to Nome and thus be off the board for a long, long time.

[Jim]

Do you want me to bring back some caribou antlers or something?

[Luna]

Sounds like you better pack for all climates if you're going from RR to Nome in Sept. Good luck. Sounds like fun but I've only climbed at RR once - don't know the place well.

[Dan_Harris]

It's been 20 years since I been to Nome. I don't remember there being much. Low rolling hills in the immediate area. Alot of people camping along the shore. Sun should still be up a long time if you're up ther in early September. I was walking around and thought it was about 9 p.m. and it was midnight. Stuff's expensive. In 1982 a burger and fries was $10 and a can of Rainier beer was on sale for a $1.50 a can at The Last Vestige Vaudeville House and Saloon at the finish line to the Iditarod. Probably doen't help you much, but your post brought back memories

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Jim said:

 

 

So I'll have a short day to climb at Red Rocks, what should I do? Gotta be 10b or below or I whine too much on the lead.

 

Sport or trad? Let's just assume sport since all the trad routes are miles long and have multi-mile approaches to boot.

 

Proceed directly to the Gallery, and tick the short routes at the left end of the wall (an 8, a 9, and a couple easy tens, all 4 or so bolts), then head over to Wall of Confusion (~100' away) and do the route on the far left side of the crag. If you still have time, drop down to the Black Corridor (just around the corner from the always fun Sweet Pain wall) and cruise some slabs.

 

That was easy, wasn't it?

[Jim]

Been there once but it was 10 yrs ago. These sound good - easily accessible. I should probably spring for a guidebook though will have time for only one day of climbing around work.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Jim said:

Been there once but it was 10 yrs ago. These sound good - easily accessible. I should probably spring for a guidebook though will have time for only one day of climbing around work.

 

Yeah, that shit's all at the second pullout, so it's only a short way up the loop drive (even though you have to drive another 11 miles to get out ), and the approach is about 15 minutes. Once you get to the Gallery, the routes are about 8 feet apart. Kind of ridiculous, but just what the doctor ordered for getting some quick easy mileage in.

[Winter]

Piss on the Gallery and all those other short climbs. Shit, there's huge sandstone walls all over the place.

 

If you want to clip bolts, climb Prince of Darkness, 5.10c. There's only one 10c move ... the 6 pitches are sustained 10a. Super cool place with huge vertical walls.

 

If you want to climb trad, try Dream of Wild Turkeys (only a couple pitches of trade rest are bolted), right next door or Chrimson Crysalis (start super early) or any of the other long moderates.

[j_b]

in case you are without a partner at red rocks, there is good bouldering at calico basin and willow springs.

[Jim]

j_b said:

in case you are without a partner at red rocks, there is good bouldering at calico basin and willow springs.

 

Is this in the park?

[j_b]

willow spring is, but i think calico basin may be right at the eastern boundary. both places are very accessible. the bouldering at willow springs in on the loop near the parking lot. there is great info on calico basin here: http://www.drtopo.com/nevada/redrocksbouldering.pdf

[Jim]

Cool - thanks. Just checked the weather, Red Rocks 98 deg, Nome 57 deg and drizzle. Could be an interesting few weeks.