JayB Posted August 15, 2003 Posted August 15, 2003 Unclipping from the webbing we were rapping from, weighting the rope, then feeling a slight jerk as the rope popped out of my belay device. I thought I had clipped the locker through the loops of rope that I'd fed into the ATC, but that was not the case. Still had a grip on the rope, and the back-up prusik probably would have saved me if I had started to fall - but extremely stupid nontheless as I imagine a 200 footer onto blocky talus would have hurt. Quote
Squid Posted August 15, 2003 Posted August 15, 2003 One time, I went on a five-week expedition with some guys I barely knew. After a couple of weeks, I realized I'd made a big mistake. It makes me wonder how many deaths on big expeditions are accidents, and how many are homicides. Quote
Ducknut Posted August 15, 2003 Posted August 15, 2003 JayB said: but extremely stupid nontheless as I imagine a 200 footer onto blocky talus would have hurt. I'll bet you wouldn't have felt a thing, not likely a memory that you'd keep long. Before I rap, I inspect the BRAKE (Belay device, Rope, Anchor, Knot, Ends). Once I have checked them out, I put my weight on the rope and anchors with my chicken sling still attached, if everything is cool then I unclip the chicken sling from the anchor and go. And no I've never made a stupid mistake while climbing, just before when I made the decision to try the stupid route . Quote
klenke Posted August 15, 2003 Posted August 15, 2003 Squid said: It makes me wonder how many deaths on big expeditions are accidents, and how many are homicides. Squid, you never did tell me how you managed to climb out of that deep dark crevasse. Quote
forrest_m Posted August 15, 2003 Posted August 15, 2003 Squid said: It makes me wonder how many deaths on big expeditions are accidents, and how many are homicides. A guy I know (J) was on a trip into the kichatna spires in the early 80, just him and one partner. The day after they arrived, the weather shut down, and it rained and snowed for 15 straight days. They huddled in their dripping snow cave, trying to conserve food and trying to think of something new to say to one another. One night, J wakes up to see his partner hunched over him, ice axe raised over his head. He looks J in the eyes and says calmly: “I could kill you man.” J is 5’-4”. He’s zipped into a mummy bag with his arms at his sides, head scrunched up into the hood. His partner is 6’-2, a blond viking type with a dreadlocked beard. It takes J two hours to “talk him down” before (viking-dude) collapses in tears “I can’t take it any more, I have to get out!!!” Fortunately, the weather opened up enough for them to fly out two days later. J regards it as his closest call in the mountains. Quote
klenke Posted August 15, 2003 Posted August 15, 2003 Forrest, from what I can remember. You're not 6'2" and blond. I have my own very stupid mistake but mine involved almost killing someone else (accidentally, of course) and not myself. I will thus maintain the secrecy on this for my own sake. For those of you who think you know what I'm talking about, you don't. This is not that. To you people, I raise the middle one: Quote
mdidriksen Posted August 18, 2003 Posted August 18, 2003 Psyching myself up to try a route in the gym the other day, I say over my shoulder to the wife "climbing." She says, "What, you want a belay for this one or something?" I look down and realize I haven't tied in yet. Quote
salbrecher Posted August 18, 2003 Posted August 18, 2003 (edited) I used to hang my belay device on my front left gear loops when being belayed. Well I top out and set up the ropes and rappel. Half way down I realize my belay device is clipped into the gear loop... I've also belayed off it before to. Some guy walked over and just started clipping beaners from the gear loop to my belay loop and didn't say a thing so the guy climbin never knew . Felt pretty stupid that day. I just leave the belay device on the belay loop now. Edited August 18, 2003 by salbrecher Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted August 18, 2003 Posted August 18, 2003 JayB said: Unclipping from the webbing we were rapping from, weighting the rope, then feeling a slight jerk as the rope popped out of my belay device. I thought I had clipped the locker through the loops of rope that I'd fed into the ATC, but that was not the case. Still had a grip on the rope, and the back-up prusik probably would have saved me if I had started to fall - but extremely stupid nontheless as I imagine a 200 footer onto blocky talus would have hurt. no it wouldn't... wouldn't feel a thing... Quote
Figger_Eight Posted August 18, 2003 Posted August 18, 2003 Squid said: One time, I went on a five-week expedition with some guys I barely knew. After a couple of weeks, I realized I'd made a big mistake. It makes me wonder how many deaths on big expeditions are accidents, and how many are homicides. My contribution: Just as I was about to lean back on the rappel anchor from atop Monkey Face, I noticed my harness wasn't doubled back. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.