minx Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 i'm looking for something moderate and alpine to climb on friday. it needs to be car to car in one day, more than 2 or 3 pitches, 5.6ish and not at WA Pass. what are some of your favorites? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 These are both in south western BC, but I like them... North Ridge of North Nesakawatch Spire and N Ridge Of Tricouni Pk. Just did the second one yesterday, and it RAWKED ! Best views from any peak in this area Both are more like easy fifth than 5.6ish though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 mt. formidable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted August 4, 2003 Author Share Posted August 4, 2003 thanks snoboy...perhaps i should've specifed w/in a 2hr or so drive of Snoqualmie Pass. That's why WA Pass is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 what about my suggestion, goddamnit? don't I get an atta-boy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 w ridge of stuart 1.6 hrs from the pass 6 hrs roudtrip from car 9.2 hrs total time. this does not include approach, mid route or summit sessions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 West Ridge of Thompson. Champagne on Snow Creek Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 erik said: w ridge of stuart 1.6 hrs from the pass 6 hrs roudtrip from car 9.2 hrs total time. this does not include approach, mid route or summit sessions. how much added time WITH the sessions!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 I CHANGE MY ROUNDTRIP TIME FROM THE CAR. 8 HRS. AND THE SESSIONS ADD ABOUT 15-20 MINUTES PER..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 da Toof, Chair, West ridge of Lundin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 N. Peak of Index is only 5.6 and close to hwy 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 southwest face of the tooth. ~5-6 pitches. it can be done at 5.6 by exiting the steep dihedral early (3rd pitch) as per beckey variation. if one stays in the dihedral all the way it goes at ~5.9-10 plus a nice 5.8 pitch beyond. great rock and a surprisingly not talked about climb (considering the easy access). thin pro on first 2 pitches (5.easy). big snow mountain (5.7 by standard rock route). great rock. south face of west garfield (long but easy). mostly 4th with little pro. one mid 5th pitch. rap backside (north) in 3 rope length and hike down timbered slope to taylor river bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 The Big Snow approach is hard on the car and the brush is hard on the body, or so I've heard. I'd like to try it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 true the road is bad and i suspect you are right about the brush these days. you should also consider the dihedral route, it is very good (although a little short ~4-5 pitches). the whole thing goes free at 10+ but the dihedral itself is 10a (large cams needed). it could be easily aided by shuffling #4 friends. lots of good rock up there. i was told the lakes had good fishing a number of years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted August 5, 2003 Author Share Posted August 5, 2003 trask said: what about my suggestion, goddamnit? don't I get an atta-boy? atta boy traskie! now be a good dog and leave me alone and go curl up w/your chew toy or something. Mt. Formidable wasn't quite the type of climb i had in mind...nice effort though. i think that i could cut the team total session time down from erik's estimates which might make that climb a nice idea the approach to big snow may thwart my weenier partner but that's not a bad call. any other suggestions are encouraged but it may not matter as my partner keeps making friday a shorter and shorter climbing day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 erik said: I CHANGE MY ROUNDTRIP TIME FROM THE CAR. 8 HRS. AND THE SESSIONS ADD ABOUT 15-20 MINUTES PER..... sooo we're looking at a 4 day epic then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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