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iain

E. Ridge of Ingalls

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After climbing the north ridge of stuart w/ boonec's boss and n, n, n's partner s, and I mosied back in to climb the east ridge of Ingalls. What a great climb! Easy simulclimbing on 4th-mid 5th class beautiful exposed ridge. One short section of harder 5.7? moves to get around a block with a diagonal crack to traverse. A nice relaxing romp on mostly good rock. There was definitely some gaperage to avoid at times on the way down s. ridge of ingalls, but we had the east ridge route to ourselves (after not one but 2 parties got so far off route on the right, sub-peak). One of them calls out to us across the gulley, "are you sure you're on route?" Yeah, pretty damn sure. hahaha.gif A great cruiser climb after the 1-day stuart deal. thumbs up thumbs_up.gif highly recommended, watch for rockfall in the entrance gulley if there is a party above.

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Glad to here that it's cool. I wanted to do it but encountered much gaperage on the route (like 3 other parties?) when I was there, so had to settle for climbing something else.

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I second Iain's warning about climber-induced rockfall in the approach gully. My partner almost got taken out by some largish rocks coming down the gully (not caused by Iain's party, but a different party in the gully).

 

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Did the exact same route on Saturday. Crossed the boulder fields from the trail, up a snow covered gulley that we managed to ascend to the left of the snow, and then onto the rock. Once on the rock, it was a nice climb...much longer than I anticipated though.

 

On that crux pitch, my partner was leading and was having trouble getting up around the block. He dumped his pack on the ledge below, and continued on. I then followed, shoving his pack up above my head (it was tied in to the rope), and grasping for the hold with my left hand with my right elbow jammed far into the crack. I'd guess the move is around 5.5 though and not 5.7. There was a couple of places where it was necessary to downclimb little spots with a fair amount of exposure. Not a big deal if you're leading 'cos then you're being belayed down, but if you're following...it's a wee bit hairy. Once on the summit, we rapped down the South face and walked back across the boulder fields. Fucking mosquitos were everywhere and I was bitten umpteen times.

 

Me and my partner didn't see anybody on the route at all except at the beginning when some Russian dude was going up the snow gulley looking for the South face smile.gif We showed him where that was though, and he quickly left.

 

Great climb though. Saw J_B in the parking lot on Sat. morning getting ready for Stuart, and Shredmaximus in the parking lot when we got back.

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JGowans said:

I'd guess the move is around 5.5 though and not 5.7.

come on dude, it's at least 5.6932, maybe 5.5042 with sportivas but 5.5002 with 5.10's.. yellaf.gif

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JGowans said:

Fucking mosquitos were everywhere and I was bitten umpteen times.

 

I don't what the deal is, but the misquitos seem to be worse than I've ever seen them in the stuart range area, and worse there than anywhere else this year. It's fucking ridiculous. thumbs_down.gif

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iain said:

JGowans said:

I'd guess the move is around 5.5 though and not 5.7.

come on dude, it's at least 5.6932, maybe 5.5042 with sportivas but 5.5002 with 5.10's.. yellaf.gif

 

I think Nelson rates it 5.7 but what do I know? All I know is that pushing a pack ahead of me while searching for the hold was getting me mightily pumped.

 

Forgot to mention about this route IMHO it requires a heavy rack...some big boat anchors required.

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I'm just kidding around, just saying it gets hard to tell when you are talking about those grades in an alpine environ and whatnot.

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There was a couple of places where it was necessary to downclimb little spots with a fair amount of exposure.

 

confused.gif Where did you have to down climb? I've done the route twice now and do not recall having to downclimb at all? Was that at the crux?

confused.gif

 

Next time try carrying less and try climbing with the pack on your back. The route doesn't involve any chimney moves, so the pack shouldn't present any problems.

 

Anyway...it is a fun route...and the crux is really only one short section of what I would call mid-fifth that is easy to protect. cool.gif

 

wave.gif

 

 

 

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i was wondering if any of you did the right sw bypass variation crack with tleaft learning westerly expoused kobbin face traverse with the two gaston moves in a row?

 

i liked it! it was fun!

 

 

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Rodchester said:

There was a couple of places where it was necessary to downclimb little spots with a fair amount of exposure.

 

confused.gif Where did you have to down climb? I've done the route twice now and do not recall having to downclimb at all? Was that at the crux?

confused.gif

 

Next time try carrying less and try climbing with the pack on your back. The route doesn't involve any chimney moves, so the pack shouldn't present any problems.

 

Anyway...it is a fun route...and the crux is really only one short section of what I would call mid-fifth that is easy to protect. cool.gif

 

wave.gif

 

Downclimbed a little when we were crossing over from one block to another. It was way before the crux pitch though.

 

I DID have my pack on AND I was pushing my partner's pack ahead of me.

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erik said:

i was wondering if any of you did the right sw bypass variation crack with tleaft learning westerly expoused kobbin face traverse with the two gaston moves in a row?

 

I would have but my partner's laser pointer was broken so could not be given appropriate beta. I assume that was your sucker chalk on the right finger pinch followed by the dyno crux to the jug left.

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yeah it was. but be warned that is not a jug you go to. i tried to hit it static several times, but i missed the obvious feet. did you see the tick marks? i tried to get them so you could shout good beta from the snow field. but i digress. yeah, that jug is an opitical illusion, more like a tight crimp, tho there is a nice crystal that really bites that third digit's pad. i got it, but had to hang several times. rehersed the moves till i got them and then pulled rope and lead it clean! from there it is realativly easy, well atleast consistant, pretty sustained at the lower end of the grade. but the moves are there. i dont think i chaulked up too many more sucker holds other then that one!

 

what a day in the mountains!

 

 

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I DID have my pack on AND I was pushing my partner's pack ahead of me.

 

blush.gif Ouch!!! That sucks. Make him carry his own pack...or make the second carry the water, food, and wind shirts for both. Or, are you the kind that carries two of the 10,000 essesntials on every route no matter what?

 

Either way...you got out and had fun!!! bigdrink.gif

 

wave.gif

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Alright, I'm going to ask a total noobie question--

 

Anybody know what that weird, super-slick greenish rock is, up there on Ingalls Peak?

 

That stuff was like teflon. Fortunately there were only occasional patches of it, along the ridge. Just wondering if others noticed the same thing.

Edited by Stephen_Ramsey

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Stephen_Ramsey said:

Alright, I'm going to ask a total noobie question--

 

Anybody know what that weird, super-slick greenish rock is, up there on Ingalls Peak?

 

That stuff was like teflon. Fortunately there were only occasional patches of it, along the ridge. Just wondering if others noticed the same thing.

 

Yeah, I've noticed it on the other side of Ingalls as well. It's almost like soapstone or something. Very slick.

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JoshK said:

It's almost like soapstone or something.

 

Isnt soapstone a type of serpentinite? E rock? They're both asbestos silicates right? confused.gif

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Read Beckeys book. It has the complete info on the green rock. Very interesting geologically. Yes it is serpentinite.

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Dru said:

JoshK said:

It's almost like soapstone or something.

 

Isnt soapstone a type of serpentinite? E rock? They're both asbestos silicates right? confused.gif

 

Beats me smile.gif I thought the serpentine comment was a joke, I wasn't aware there was a type of rock called serpentinite. I just recognized the similarity to soapstone, which I had seen in rock collections, etc. before.

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Serpentine minerals (magnesium silicates; (Mg, Fe)3Si2O5(OH)4). Olive-green, blackish to yellowish green, greasy, waxy, or silky minerals with a hardness of 3-5. High in Iron and Magnesium due to the depth at which they came from.

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catbirdseat said:

They are known as "mafic" rocks.

 

actually wise guy, serpentinite and olivine/dunite are ultramafic...

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