Southern Wind River Range beta

[Rodchester]

Looking into a trip into the southern Winds this August (Cirque of the Towers). I am looking for any first hand beta regarding:

Recommended peaks/routes (low to mid fifth class)near the Cirque?

Approach to the Cirque? (Wondering if jackass pass is the best approach?)

Any kick ass multip pitch routes within a half day walk from the cirque?

Also looking for any beta on Petzoldts' Ridge on the Grand Teton? Is the start at the same level as the start for the complete Exum...only to the right?

Thanks in advance....

Please keep the spray down to a minimum.

[chris_w]

I hit the cirque last summer. Jackass pass does save you a good amount of time. It took us about 2 hours to make it to the lake and then another 2-3 to make it to the pass. The national forest suggests bear canisters, you can borrow them in pinedale at the ranger station. We never did see or hear of anyone running into a bear up there. As for the cirque, we did the south buttress on Pingora, 4 pitches 5.6-5.8 (depends which crack you take). That was a lot of fun. We also did the east ridge of Wolfs head. Beware, if you start leading pitches from the base of the climb, it will be about 17 pitches. It took us 13 hours to get back to our packs. If I went back, I would simul-climb till the darth vader tower and the chimney\crack that you have to squeeze through. After that the fun pitches start. I have some pictures of both routes on my website athttp://home1.gte.net/res0fc86 I also have quicktime VR from the top of Pingora.

As for the Petzoldt's ridge. It looked like it starts a little higher then the exum (like 100 feet). I think hollyclimber did the petzoldt's this summer. You might want to send her a message.

Hopefully this helpschris

[ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: chris_w ]

[Rodchester]

Thanks for the beta...good site. I may drop you a PM as summer approaches for additional info.

[W]

Rod,I was in there last August. Jackass Pass is a bit tedious because of talus and some up and down but it doesn't take that long. From the pass, angle down and left instead of heading toward Lonesome Lake, and you'll come down into a nice basin to camp, right in the heart of the Cirque and close to all the good climbs. I'll second Chris' recommendation on Wolf's Head and the south buttress of Pingora- definitely try to simul on Wolf's Head, but beware for your second that the follower is also leading on that climb- many traverses. It's definitely the most unique "5.6" I've done- some relatively intimidating pitches for the grade, and with a whole LOT of exposure to go with it. Don't be up there, or anywhere up high, in late afternoon if thunderheads are around, and they likely will be in July and August. Another route I did that I highly recommend was the "east face/left side cracks" of Pingora- not the Northeast, which is the 50 crowded (supposed to be good also, but we didn't do it). the east face is a little easier and less sustained than the northeast, and way less crowded. It is about 10 or 11 pitches, 8 of which are about 5.7, with one variation that is 5.9- or so. The rock is absolutely the best. There are a few wide cracks so take a #4 camalot. but mostly it is hand cracks and even some face climbing, on clean granite with a beautiful view behind. Five stars. Sharks Nose and Overhanging Tower also are supposed to be really good, and quite moderate. Some folks we met in there had been over in the valley south of Jackass Pass- on Haystack Mountain (check the Guidebook)- said no one was over there at all, and Haystack had some great climbing routes. Also some nice summits in there- East Temple, Temple, etc. with moderate <5.6 routes, really aesthetic. Bears didn't seem to be a problem, but you'll want to hang your food to keep the mice and squirrels out of it. look for big overhanging boulders, some people have balanced large sticks on top from which to hang food.Enjoy!

[ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: W ]

[dberdinka]

Cirque of the Towers is great! Deep Lake might even be better!! Both areas are accessed from Big Sandy Lake which is beautiful in it's own right.

I once spent 5 days in the Deep Lake are and saw only one group of hikers, you'll never get that solitude in the Cirque. Either way, the Wind Rivers are some of the most beautiful country I've ever been in. Think Enchantments for 200 miles.

As for Routes there are tons of great ones. My favorites would be

In the Cirque

SW Face of Sharfin IV 5.8 Long approach to a very alpine feeling rock climb. Great rock and an awesome summit

E Face Left-side Cracks Pingora IV 5.7The best 5.7 climb you'll ever do. Pitch after pitch of awesome hand cracks. More direct, clean and continous (and easier) than the NE Face

Routes I haven't done that look good areN Face of Mitchell IV 5.9 - killer lookingdihedralS Face of Wolf's Head 5.10+ Nice looking face

In Deep Lake there are even better climbs!

N Ridge of Steeple III 5.8 Beautiful climbing with an awesome chimney on a sweet looking peak.

SW Face of Haystack IV 5.10b Long pitches up dihedrals and splitter cracks on perfect rock.

Minor Dihedral of Haystack IV 5.9+ More of the same! Killer!

SW Face of Lost Temple Spire IV 5.10 You'll feel like your in Patagonia. Steep, difficult climbing in a shady, windy local surrounded by steep walls. The final chimney is spectacular.

There are another half dozen routes on Haystack alone I'd like to do. Now that I think about it, I've never climbed a bad route in the winds. Enjoy!

OOPs! I got so excited I forgot about the low/mid 5th request. Standard route on Sharkfin would be an exciting 5.6 on excellent rock. Overhang Tower can be climbed by a pitch or 2 of low-5th. Around Deep Lake the S ridge of Haystack looks excellent as does the NW (?) ridge of Temple. This would be a huge climb/scramble to low-5th that is supposedly excellent.

[ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

[Rodchester]

Great beta...really appreciate it.

Anyone know anything about ellingwood peak?

[Lambone]

Yes! Ellingwood is a beautifull peak with a loooong prominent North Ridge on excellent granite(good as stuff in the cirque). Mostly easy fifth class climbing Grade III or easy IV from camp. Some friends of mine have soloed it, they all say it is a classic day out.

But it's not in the south, more like the middle. You approach through Pindale on the west side as you would for Titcomb Basin. Head past Seneca Lake and on to Island Lake. You will see the Peak to the east, head east at fork in trail towards Indian Pass or something??

If your in that area definately head up to Titcomb Basin as well. It makes for a good basecamp for Ganite Peak. Also Check out Mt. Helen. The North Coulior up to the West Ridge is the best alpine route I've ever done, and the routes on Tower 1 look awsome!

Need a partner? I have been dieing to go back there for a couple of years now.

Have Fun! - Matt

[ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[Rodchester]

Lambone:

The North Coulior is that the one between Tower 1 and Helen? The one you can see very clearly from Bonney/Dinwoody pass?

I have been in the Titcomb Basin area a bunch and just love it. We are debating going back there or into the Cirque. I remeber Ellingswood and have heard there is a real long classic route on it. I assume it is the North Ridge.

Which area do you prefer?

[freeclimb9]

The decadent trip would be for two weeks, and get horse-packed in up the Popo Agie river with a pile of real food. Last time I checked, it was $200 for the wrangler and $80/horse load.

[Rodchester]

I thought about getting a horse to do a "drop pack" of food, fuel, and maybe the rack and rope. This would allow us to go a little heavy and stay for a while. I am looking at two weeks in Wyoming...not sure how I am going to split it up.

Do any of you know any horse packers in the area? I know that Todd Skinner's uncle used to operate out of Pinedale.

Price is a concern. I guess with six people the price could be worth it.

Good beta guys, thanks a lot.

[freeclimb9]

Pinedale area outfitters: http://www.pinedaleonline.com/B-Outf&Guides.HTM

Lander area: not too many operating out of Lander A list of the state of Wyoming's outfitters has only a few http://www.allguidesoutfitters.com/New_Folder/wyoming_hunting_guides_and_outfi.htm including http://www.diamond4ranch.com/

You can try asking NOLS who they use.

Good luck.

[freeclimb9]

To approach the Cirque, Big Sandy opening and over Jackass pass is the better (take the climber's trail to the west side of the tarn rather than switchbacking eastwards on the trail). The alternate route to the Cirque up the Popo Agie river requires many river crossings. I've only climbed one route in the Cirque --Pingora via the classic northeast face-- but it was great (and we were only one of two groups on the whole peak). For the Cirque, other posts mentioned great moderate climbs, but overlooked the north face route (5.7) on Mitchell.

I've done a few more routes above Clear lake on the Haystack and Steeple peaks, and thought they were all great --Really great. I highly recommend both the Major and Minor dihedrals (only a couple moves of 5.9, and much enjoyable 5.7 and 5.8 --thousands of feet of it, actually. The 5.10 move on the Major dihedral isn't that big a deal, and it's well protected) and the Central Corner is good. The north ridge of Steeple was fun, too, and well suited for wetter days since it dries faster than the Haystack.

Though Big Sandy lake can be very crowded, it makes a great basecamp location for climbing at the Haystack and/or Steeple before going over to the Cirque. If it is crowded, a camp hidden in the trees by the creek coming out of Black Joe lake.

It sounds like you know the Winds well, but I'll add that early August can be grim with hordes of mosquitoes.

The Petzoldt ridge route does start at a higher elevation than the direct Exum especially if you scramble up the couloir before exiting left onto the rock.

[Lambone]

Yes to both. The coloiur is the obvious one next to Tower 1, there is a good pic of it in the book as well. That is the easy pary (1hour)...the ridge took all day (toped out just before sunset)w/ tricky route finding, but good rock. It was snowy/icy mixed conditions that day, just awsome...

The Ellingwood ridge looks like it just goes forever!

Unfortunately I have never been to the Cirque. It looks unsurpassed with many more continuos long stellar rock routes. Some day...

I'd also like to do a route on Hooker sometime.

[mtnrgr]

If you want info on the winds look at www.geocities.com/yosemite/meadows/7616. It's my friends site, and he remembers all sorts of beta. Write me if you need more info.

[cmonster]

Like all the other folks on this reply, I was there in late August/early September. Great climbing. One thing we underestimated was the acclimation. We hiked in from car to the cirque (take the climbers trail fo' sho') one day. Climbed the south buttress on Pingora next (funa and short. good intro to the cirque). The next day we were resting and walked around to scope out Pingora N/Buttress and East Face Cracks. I bonked on the way back. We had come from sea level to 10,000 so quickly, I forgot to take care of myself. Once acclimated, we had a blast. Everything we did was way cool. Though, if you do Pingora/E Face Cracks, bring something to clean the grass out of the cracks and, IMO, double up on #3, #3 1/2 and #4 for the upper sections unless you like wide, long runnouts. By far, the coolest climb I've ever done is Wolf's Head/East Ridge. Crazy traversing with wicked exposure. I was constantly telling myself "protect the belay. protect the second". One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet was the fact that the cirque is CROWDED. I'm not sure we ever had a pitch to ourselves in 8 days. I don't know if that's due to the climbing article that came out last year or if it's the norm. Still, the rock was impecable. Next time, I'm hoping for 15-20 days instead of 8 so we can get more climbing in and still have some rest days. Super, super place. Can't wait to get back.

[Jarred_Jackman]

If you can climb 5.9 and make it through 11 pitches forget the 5.6 route on Pingora and do the Southeast I think it is, whichever of the southern routes that starts in a crescent moon shaped dihedral and goes 11 pitches. You can rap the 5.6 route and see if you like it. The summit is so nice, and the climbing is great. Also, shark's fin is a good climb if you approach via shadow lake, easy trail in, texas pass is not bad at all, great swimming at shadow. The crowds are hit and miss, we didn't have trouble, the only team on Pingora that day, but the next day we could watch the bullshit around the fourth pitch as parties were trying to pass in a very narrow area. Also, the warrior or the bonet, don't remember which, but supposedly excellent climbing. Get a good guidebook, ours was not very discriptive and left us guessing at points. Take some time for Wild Iris too, fun hard routes, short. If you haven't done the complete Exum you should give it a shot, watch out for the marmots at the saddle in camp, they'll eat through everything whether there's food involved or not. Also, this goes for the Tetons, didn't experience it in the Winds, if a storm comes in during August just find an overhang, Wall Street if you're on the Exum, and wait it out, everyone will bail off the hill and you'll be sitting in the sun an hour later with the dry perfect rock to yourselves.

[mattp]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jarred Jackman:

... if a storm comes in during August just find an overhang, Wall Street if you're on the Exum, and wait it out, everyone will bail off the hill and you'll be sitting in the sun an hour later with the dry perfect rock to yourselves.

---

Good advice--these storms are generally short lived and while unpleasant in the moment, not life threatning -- except if you get fried. Any good Mountaineer has studied those diagrams in Freedom of the Hills that show how sitting under an overhang may result in your becoming a conductor for the ground currents resulting from a strike. Sitting under an overhang that happens to be located in a vertical crack or gully system where water may create a conduit, or sitting under an overhang anywhere near a summit, pinnacle, shoulder, or ridge crest may not be a good idea.