Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
robertjoy

Dragontail Peak conditions

Recommended Posts

My daughter will be climbing Dragontail/serpentine this coming weekend with 5 friends. Can anyone describe current conditions (need crampons, axe?) on approach or (Asgaard pass) descent. Hate to carry in or carry over un-necessary gear hahaha.gif.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hummmm. Lets see... It will likely be the same as every other year at this time. Possibly a little snow at the base that might be nice to have crampons to cross, or can be skirted around. The desent will have a snow field. If you dont take crampons then you walk an extra half mile around and go down from there. Oh and later in the season there will be less snow. rolleyes.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Serpentine Ridge is a fun route. The remarks about choss are not really true. I would even say the rock is better than say Forbidden Peak. There are the random loose blocks on the large sections of 4th class like any 4th class section in the mountains. I think the rock is solid where the climbing is steeper. Where the angle drops then just step a little bit more careful so you don't dislodge obvious blocks on the parties behind you.

 

I do recommend helmets up higher if you are climbing in such a large group. Bring your route finding beacon and enjoy.

 

The approach and descent are usually not without snow. The degree of the slope will vary depending on the year. Just bring some crampons and or an axe and you should be okay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As of Sunday there is a short patch of hard steep snow, about a hundred feet wide, at the base of the route. Certainly best crossed with crampons although you could probably kick steps if you were wearing heavy boots.

 

The slope on the descent from the summit to Asgard Pass is much larger and is also steep but likely to be softer late in the day. I wore soft approach shoes and was glad of a pair of Al crampons and a light axe. You may be able to skirt around this but there's more snow up there than when we did this last year so you may be walking a bit further.

 

The descent from Asgard Pass is snow free.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the route about 4 weeks ago and found it in great condition. definitely didn't need crampons, but was glad to have my axe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We were there yesterday. It didn't get very cold overnight, so the snow wasn't too hard. We brought a tool each (less clunky than an axe) and single pair of alum crampons for the two of us. We never touched the pons, though the tool was nice for playing games inside the moat and for glissading down Dragontail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
robertjoy said:

My daughter will be climbing Dragontail/serpentine this coming weekend with 5 friends.

 

Rockfall danger, big time. Tell her to be careful or lead everyting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't the road to the trailhead supposed to close this week?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going into the Enchantments your daughter might meet sketchy people like Greg-W or capt. caveman, and before you know it she'd be mackin' back horesecock and doing snuggle bivis with Beckey shocked.gif the horror! shocked.gifwink.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hello i am reading in new canadian alpine journal that when fred beckey had to bivouac with ray borbon who i think is capitan caveman on this site, in the nuit range, the last summer, he is now calling it his most miserable bivouac ever. mr caveman did you insist on being the spoon and not the jelly!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×