lost climbing shoe in leavenworth

[scoe]

I left one blue sportiva "cliff" shoe at the base of the bridge creek buttress. We were climbing the 5.7 face to the left of the 5.8 arete. Please email me at scoe@u.washington.edu if found. 25$ reward!!

[atomic]

It was still there sunday afternoon. We set it up on a rock (to be visible) but didn't take it because we figured you'd come back for it.

[scoe]

thanks for replying- gives me hope I might get it back. Unfortunately I was already back in Seattle on sunday when I realized I had left it there.

[catbirdseat]

I have your shoe. It was sitting on a rock at Little Bridge Creek Rock. Will you be at one of the Pub Clubs, either Seattle or Everett? Screw the $25. I will exchange one shoe for one beer.

 

Someone ought to put one or two bolts near the top of that 5.7 route. It would make a good beginner's lead if it weren't for the 20 ft runout.

[Dru]

catbirdseat said:

 

 

Someone ought to put one or two bolts near the top of that 5.7 route. It would make a good beginner's lead if it weren't for the 20 ft runout.

 

Beginners need to learn to deal with runouts too. 5.7 terrain is a good place to learn. There are plenty of well protected 5.7s in the Icicle or they can TR it if they can't muster the gumption to run it out 20 ft.

[catbirdseat]

We did top rope it. I did not lead it because a fall would likely resulted in a broken foot as there is a small ledge that would interrupt a fall before gear could catch you.

 

There are not as many well protected 5.7 trad (especially crack) climbs in the icicle as you would think. There are 31 in Kramar '96, but many are either not in the icicle, are bolted face climbs, or accessed only by first climbing harder routes, etc.

[snoboy]

catbirdseat said:

We did top rope it. I did not lead it because a fall would likely resulted in a broken foot as there is a small ledge that would interrupt a fall before gear could catch you.

 

And thus showed the kind of good judgement that you should.

 

sorry about the bad grammar...

[scoe]

Awesome, thanks so much for getting my shoe!!!!! I was dreading having to shell out another $100 for a new pair.

 

Yeah, there is quite a long run out on that climb. We top roped it once and then I simul-lead it on top rope just to pratice placing gear. After realizing there were no more placements for pro I just got lowered down. Its a really nice climb though!!

[Dwayner]

Scoe: don't get your hopes up. We had a big discussion last night, me 'n c-bird, and I'm not sure if it's your shoe. First of all, it has a spiked heel. Secondly, it is a custom size 15. Thirdly, it was found in a dumpster behind the Tumwater Tavern.....c-bird was a bit confused from the suds and such....The shoe he actually found at the climbing area was his own....that's why he was complaining a bit about that climb.....when you wear socks the same color as your shoes, and you get a little excited to get going, sometimes things get lost in the details. Furthermore, I received a message last night from a certain "Larngo" that reads as follows:

"Found lost climber shoe. Made fire. Cooked shoe and ate it. Shoe taste good. Saved tender laces for Muffy. Man want shoe back at pub club. Larngo hope it digest by then and will leave on floor next to beer table."

- Larngo

 

[allthumbs]

send 5.13

[Dwayner]

Did a 5.13a this weekend.....I've got three unavailable witnesses in Oregon and some GPS data to prove it.

[allthumbs]

Dwayner said:

Did a 5.13a this weekend.....I've got three unavailable witnesses in Oregon and some GPS data to prove it.

dwayner -, esq. hehehe

[scoe]

its amazing what a simple lost and found thread can turn into....

[atomic]

Scoe, glad you'll be getting your shoe.

 

Catbirdseat, I agree about the bolt near the top. I certainly don't believe in wanton bolting, but I've been to that spot twice now, and I also think that the route would make a nice beginning lead. The lack of placement opportunities near the top simply relegates it to top-roping for most. To run that route out confidently would require a 10a+ climbing ability IMHO, simply because it's not a steep, juggy 5.7/5.8 experience (with more hang-time involved in your fall), but rather a slightly gritty, well-off-vertical face climb that would end up on that little ledge that was mentioned.

 

I did lead it, and went up the left side thinking that there would be at least something up higher, or else I could just suck it up and run it out (big deal, right? it's only 5.7 or.8--I can't remember which side is which). There was one move about 15 ft below the top that sketched me just enough to contemplate the grind I would enjoy all the way down to the ledge, so I traversed left and slung that jammed rock and came back out on the route, thinking that I'd rather pendulum into the moss than hit the ledge (gaper's choice). Oh, and then everyone else TR'd it (yawn).

 

Actually, the route to the right used to be bolted, from what I heard. Someone chopped 'em last summer, I think. Guy must have been pretty passionate about either run-outs or top-roping, and wanted to help preserve both for posterity.

[chelle]

R&D is a great multipitch beginner lead in the Icicle. Spaghetti Sauce is another one. Both have near to no hiking to get to the base. And on Spaghetti Sauce it seems someone has lowered the bolt just off the deck so us short people can reach it. I haven't grown since the first time I lead it when I recall having to make one move up to the bolt. What more could a beginner want?

[scoe]

Scoe: don't get your hopes up. We had a big discussion last night, me 'n c-bird, and I'm not sure if it's your shoe. First of all, it has a spiked heel. Secondly, it is a custom size 15. Thirdly, it was found in a dumpster behind the Tumwater Tavern.....c-bird was a bit confused from the suds and such....The shoe he actually found at the climbing area was his own....that's why he was complaining a bit about that climb.....when you wear socks the same color as your shoes, and you get a little excited to get going, sometimes things get lost in the details. Furthermore, I received a message last night from a certain "Larngo" that reads as follows:

"Found lost climber shoe. Made fire. Cooked shoe and ate it. Shoe taste good. Saved tender laces for Muffy. Man want shoe back at pub club. Larngo hope it digest by then and will leave on floor next to beer table."

- Larngo

 

It needed to be worked in a little bit anyway. Can I give you my other shoe for a couple of days?

 

[catbirdseat]

atomic said:

Scoe, glad you'll be getting your shoe.

 

Catbirdseat, I agree about the bolt near the top. I certainly don't believe in wanton bolting, but I've been to that spot twice now, and I also think that the route would make a nice beginning lead. The lack of placement opportunities near the top simply relegates it to top-roping for most. To run that route out confidently would require a 10a+ climbing ability IMHO, simply because it's not a steep, juggy 5.7/5.8 experience (with more hang-time involved in your fall), but rather a slightly gritty, well-off-vertical face climb that would end up on that little ledge that was mentioned.

 

I did lead it, and went up the left side thinking that there would be at least something up higher, or else I could just suck it up and run it out (big deal, right? it's only 5.7 or.8--I can't remember which side is which). There was one move about 15 ft below the top that sketched me just enough to contemplate the grind I would enjoy all the way down to the ledge, so I traversed left and slung that jammed rock and came back out on the route, thinking that I'd rather pendulum into the moss than hit the ledge (gaper's choice). Oh, and then everyone else TR'd it (yawn).

 

Actually, the route to the right used to be bolted, from what I heard. Someone chopped 'em last summer, I think. Guy must have been pretty passionate about either run-outs or top-roping, and wanted to help preserve both for posterity.

I climbed both the 5.7 face climb and the 5.8 arete on top rope and it seemed that the arete had at least a little marginal placements higher up, although it was still pretty run out. Seems strange that our local hardmen could get passionate enough about a beginner's roadside attraction to chop bolts.

[erik]

catbirdseat said:

Seems strange that our local hardmen could get passionate enough about a beginner's roadside attraction to chop bolts.

 

or maybe it seems strange that a grid bolter would come by and bolt a standing top rope route?

 

 

[Dru]

Mickey Mantle at 8_mile is an excellent well protected lead at 5.7 despite the old versions of the guide saying it was TR only... take tri cams or other gear to place in bomber deep horizontal cracks.

[snoboy]

atomic said:The lack of placement opportunities near the top simply relegates it to top-roping for most. To run that route out confidently would require a 10a+ climbing ability IMHO, simply because it's not a steep, juggy 5.7/5.8 experience (with more hang-time involved in your fall), but rather a slightly gritty, well-off-vertical face climb that would end up on that little ledge that was mentioned.

 

Just because it is graded .7/.8 or whatever, doesn't mean it is a good novice route, or that it neccesarily should be. If it was graded with a 2 part system, that might be more obvious, before someone got out there and got scared.

 

I climb 10+ gear when I am at my best, but I love sometimes to test my head space on 5.7 runout slabs. Just ask TLG! So there is a place and a need for runout "easy" routes too. Just because the climbing is easy doesn't mean the climb is or should be.

[atomic]

snoboy said:

If it was graded with a 2 part system, that might be more obvious,

[atomic]

Regarding the above reply fragment (I'm new to this--hit the wrong button), I was wondering what that meant: the 2-part system stuff.

[catbirdseat]

Dru said:

Mickey Mantle at 8_mile is an excellent well protected lead at 5.7 despite the old versions of the guide saying it was TR only... take tri cams or other gear to place in bomber deep horizontal cracks.

Hey Dru, thanks for the tip. I appreciate it.

[Dru]

snoboy more to the point is whether you ever climb 11b well bolted slab than if you climb 10+ trad or not

 

by a 2 part system you mean like the Brits E1 5c or whatever one grade for the pro one grade for the moves?

 

i personally think a 3 part system would be best, one for technical difficulty, one for mental difficulty (exposure and runout) and 1 for objective hazard ie looseness, ankle breaking ledges and so on.

 

the reason for the 3rd part of the rating being I'd rather be 100 foot runout, or soloing, on bomber rock than 20 feet runout on loose choss.

[atomic]

Interesting, Dru. Now you've really got me thinking.

 

Ditto the preference for "harder" climbing on good rock than "easier" on something with more objective danger--my particular bane is grit or dirt. I'll solo mid-fifth if it's solid, especially for the hands (think The Tooth), but if it's 5.0 but dirty I'm going to involve a rope somehow (although maybe not full pitching-out). But then, doesn't that suggest that the lower rating doesn't really capture the real difficulty of the climb?

 

Not that I have to have all this laid out to enjoy climbing.... But it is kind of interesting.

 

Someone asked me a couple of weeks ago if a 5.7 friction climb was harder than a 5.7 edging (or whatever you'd call it) climb. I wasn't exactly sure how to answer, other than to say that the rating is supposed to cover the whole "difficulty" without reference to your particular strengths or weaknesses. Crack climbing would be another good example. Hmmm. Like I said, interesting.