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Q re late season climbing on Hood


Thinker

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I've got a bud coming in from the midwest for the Hood to Coast run in late August and he wants to climb Hood before the race. I'm thinking about it.

 

From what I've read, the standard route usually has some pretty wicked rock fall that time of year. Just how bad is it? Do any other moderate routes avoid the rockfall? Any other concerns about late season climbing on hood?

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I went up the standard route on Hood last week, and frankly, would not have gone had I known what the rock fall situation was like. There were large rocks littering the snow around us from about 9000 feet to the summit. The nastiest area is the snow chute you climb through ( I think this might be called "pearly gates") right before you get to the summit. There is a sand pile loaded with hurking boulders perched precariously on one another, and it's right above you. Plus, people tend to bottleneck in this area, so it's difficult to move as quickly as you should. I'm surprised there aren't more serious injuries here considering the number of people trekking through there every day.

 

I would only do this route in winter/early spring. Also, I would pack skis/snowboard and stash at the top of the ski runs. The hike back down was looooong!

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Thinker said:

I've got a bud coming in from the midwest for the Hood to Coast run in late August and he wants to climb Hood before the race. I'm thinking about it.

 

From what I've read, the standard route usually has some pretty wicked rock fall that time of year. Just how bad is it? Do any other moderate routes avoid the rockfall? Any other concerns about late season climbing on hood?

 

First of all if you have a bud you should smoke it. Seriously though, the mountain always has rock and icefall. In summer just make sure you are on the summit at or just before sunrise and get off the top of the mountain as soon as possible. You will avoid the majority of the crowds, climb in cooler weather, and avoid too much exposure to the sun.

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Acctually, the Coe might be reasonable and toward the top if you pick a judicious line up to the right of the standard Sunshine you can also have minimal rock fall exposure. But do it early, in any case. Also, if you don't care about the summit playing on the seracs on the Elliot is fun.

 

Just my opinion... Indeed, it is safer to sit at home, eat chips, drink beer and play video games.

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Hiromi said:

I went up the standard route on Hood last week, and frankly, would not have gone had I known what the rock fall situation was like. There were large rocks littering the snow around us from about 9000 feet to the summit. The nastiest area is the snow chute you climb through ( I think this might be called "pearly gates") right before you get to the summit. There is a sand pile loaded with hurking boulders perched precariously on one another, and it's right above you. Plus, people tend to bottleneck in this area, so it's difficult to move as quickly as you should. I'm surprised there aren't more serious injuries here considering the number of people trekking through there every day.

 

I'm surprised there aren't more serious injuries here considering the number of people who continue climbing up when large rocks litter the snow around them from about 9000 feet, and there is a sand pile loaded with hurking boulders perched precariously on one another, and it's right above them.

 

Seriously, judging from the rest of your post, you should have maybe abandoned the climb short of the summit if you felt you would not have been there in the first place had you known of the danger level. For what it's worth, this is not advice I always follow myself, but I have many times. Especially on a route as accessible as the South Side of Hood, it's always there another day.

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Hiromi said:

Geez, people on this site are mean! It was dark. I didn't see the rocks until we were coming down.

 

He didn't call you a ignorant-punk-ass-bitch-wanker-fucker or anything, he just SUGGESTED that you "should have maybe" turned around and offered that he himself doesn't always follow his own advice. Don't be so sensitive. If that's the worst you get flamed on this site, you are getting off pretty damn well.

 

And BTW: black rocks in white snow should be pretty easy to see, even in the "dark".

 

Cheers

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