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Posted

If you mean the E Arete, yes, its quite easy to do in about 10 hours car-to-car if you go the std approach (whats that called, Roush Creek? Eldorado Creek?). Pre-scouting the first 1/2 mile in daylight will help you in the dark in the moring. Start super early so you can do most of the approach (about 4-5 hours if you are light and fast) while its still cool. Poles help at times, but the trail is steep enough especially through the talus that they dont help other times. Take crampons and an axe. The glacier is real, but typically an easy fairly benign route can be found if you are solo.

 

Posted

ditto what those guys said. I would say it's very much preferable to do it in a day with a lightpack than haul overnight gear up the approach. It really isn't that bad if you are light, it makes boulder hoping and that steet forest about 100x less terrible.

Posted

Me, too.

 

Agree with them I mean grin.gif

 

Humping bivi gear up the slope is not a hoot.

 

I met a couple of guys up there last summer who I think left the car 3 am and were coming through the boulder field at 10 am, after climbing the couloir on the backside. Leave the stuff at home and fly.

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