Timcb Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 So- is there anything at all to say about the different brands of nuts? It seems like there are 10+ different types of nuts available, and I'm wondering before I buy whether there should be anything but cost involved in my decision. weight's an issue too, since I'm most interested in alpine rock, but is there much of a difference in this regard? Folks have any favorite brands or bad experiences to relate? there must be some strong opinions out there. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 I tend to favor my old set of Choinards (circa 1985). I replaced some of the trashed ones several years later with BD's "newer" style, and don't like them as much as the old Coonyards. The newer ones seem "boxier" and almost stubby by comparison. The sizes don't match between the two styles either. Don't know why they did that; I liked them the old way. Or maybe I'm just old! My $0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 I feel that the Metolius curved nuts are a little awkward and can be hard to clean. I like Smiley's Wedgies (basically same as the BDs, and now ABC Huevos or something) and DMM Walnuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 i like placing dmm wallnuts, but i use the huevo's (pka: smilies). they're lighter ... and much more colorful. they also come at a pretty good price for a full set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 I've used an array and keep coming back to the BD. Simple and inexpensive. I have some Russian titanium nuts, some HB and others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Gary_Yngve said: I feel that the Metolius curved nuts are a little awkward and can be hard to clean. I like Smiley's Wedgies (basically same as the BDs, and now ABC Huevos or something) and DMM Walnuts. I was wonderful if I was the only person that found the metolious nuts a pain in the ass to clean sometimes. I find them manage to get themselves stuck rather easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 I love ABC Huevos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 I use Wild Country Rocks. Mainly because I started using them way back when so can eyeball placements really quickly. I'd say buy something you're familiar with placing and that's pretty popular with your climbing partners. There's nothing more irritating than trying to lead something with someone else's rack made up of gear that you can't place first time. I've not done any weighing but I suspect the weights are very similar across all brands. On an alpine rack you're probably not carrying a full set anyways, further reducing any weight differences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Ade said: I've not done any weighing but I suspect the weights are very similar across all brands. i've done some, and once you start putting full sets of nuts together, there are definitely differences. of course, it's not like we're talking pounds' worth of differences ... but anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Nutz- the more the merrier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Honey Roasted Peanuts are my favorite... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Ristau Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 I carry a set of Wild Country rocks, as well as a set of Super rocks. It seems that all of the curved or radically tapered nuts are more difficult to place and more likely to become stuck. I do find the Super rocks very useful in flaring cracks ( squamish) Wild Country has also sized the rocks so that when you turn a nut for a sideways placement, it is the same size as the next smallest nut, which makes for nice consistency in size of placements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Ristau Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Wild Country Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 thelawgoddess said: Ade said: I've not done any weighing but I suspect the weights are very similar across all brands. i've done some, and once you start putting full sets of nuts together, there are definitely differences. of course, it's not like we're talking pounds' worth of differences ... but anyway. So what are the numbers? Most useful number would be for a half set, alternate sizes, which is pretty good start for a light alpine rack, and a whole set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Ade said: So what are the numbers? figured you might ask, but i don't have that information anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 thelawgoddess said: Ade said: So what are the numbers? figured you might ask, but i don't have that information anymore. For a set of nuts covering 7-30mm approx: Wild Country Rocks (#1-10): 383g BD Stoppers (#4-13): 399g DMM Walnuts (#1-10): 400g Half sets will be roughly half the wieghts depending on which ones you pick. Max difference for a full set 17g or about half an once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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