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Posted

I've got a 6mm x 50m cord that I would like to be able to tie to my 8.5mm x 50m rope, for the occasional rappel. I would be using it if I have to bail on a climb that is steep enough where down-climbing is not an appealing option, but not so steep that I would have double ropes (e.g., steep couloirs and such).

 

Anyone know if this technique (using a 6mm rap cord + the climbing rope) is used much? Does it work well? If so, what is the best knot for tying the two ropes together? For two ropes of equal diameter, I would normally use the EDK. But for the 6mm and 8.5mm together, I'm not sure what to use.

 

Thanks.

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Posted

I've used the EDK in this application with no problems. Just leave really long (~3') tails and dress the knot before waiting. Another option is to rap off the single strand of the thicker cord and use the thin line as a pull cord.

Posted

The good old double fisherman's works always, no matter whether the diameters are different. I wouldn't trust the EDK for ropes of different diameters unless I had a specific knowledge of testing which showed it to be safe. Beyond that, I wouldn't use 6 mm to rappel on. It is plenty strong, but it is very susceptible to being cut. I wouldn't go lower than 7 mm. I'm sure others would disagree.

Posted (edited)
Coopah said:

Use a becket bend and back it up with an overhand on either side. Much easier to get undone after being loaded.

 

Sorry Coopah, but unless you have a "becket" to tie it to, it's probably actually a sheet bend you are referring to. Geek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gif

 

catbirdseat said:I wouldn't trust the EDK for ropes of different diameters unless I had a specific knowledge of testing which showed it to be safe.

 

Here you go, CBS, Admittedly, it doesn't adress 6mm+8.5mm.

Edited by snoboy
Posted
snoboy said:

Coopah said:

Use a becket bend and back it up with an overhand on either side. Much easier to get undone after being loaded.

 

Sorry Coopah, but unless you have a "becket" to tie it to, it's probably actually a sheet bend you are referring to. Geek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gif

 

catbirdseat said:I wouldn't trust the EDK for ropes of different diameters unless I had a specific knowledge of testing which showed it to be safe.

 

Here you go, CBS, Admittedly, it doesn't adress 6mm+8.5mm.

You will note there were three instances in which they tested an 11 mm dynamic rope tied to an 8 mm static rope. In no instance was the failure load less than 950 lbs. So in theory you could use it with the two smaller diameter ropes, but you can't always predict what might happen as you change the scale. Failure load almost certainly would be lower than with the larger diameter ropes. If you do not like the the double fisherman's knot use a EDK backed up with a DFK. If the DFK never get's loaded, it should be easy to untie.
Posted (edited)
snoboy said:

Coopah said:

Use a becket bend and back it up with an overhand on either side. Much easier to get undone after being loaded.

 

Sorry Coopah, but unless you have a "becket" to tie it to, it's probably actually a sheet bend you are referring to. Geek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gif

 

I don't know what your smoking cantfocus.gif but a becket bend is exactly what I mean...I think you are uninformed to other names of knots. Maybe you should look it up before you spout off again... wazzup.gif

 

 

 

 

Edited by Coopah
Posted
Coopah said:

snoboy said:

Coopah said:

Use a becket bend and back it up with an overhand on either side. Much easier to get undone after being loaded.

 

Sorry Coopah, but unless you have a "becket" to tie it to, it's probably actually a sheet bend you are referring to. Geek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gifGeek_em8.gif

 

I don't know what your smoking cantfocus.gif but a becket bend is exactly what I mean...I think you are uninformed to other names of knots. Maybe you should look it up before you spout off again... wazzup.gif

 

Umm, I looked it up (even though I know I was right) and it seems I am right! Imagine that! blush.gif

 

Let's take this to PM if you wanna argue more about it. Newbies forum aint the best place for pissing contests. smile.gif

Posted
snoboy said:

Let's take this to PM if you wanna argue more about it. Newbies forum aint the best place for pissing contests. smile.gif

 

for the love of dog please do.

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