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Gimli Topo


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p1: Climb corner on toe of ridge good stemmin or chimney it like FA party did. Move right under roof and up to ledge, Climb crack above ledge to good belay. 5.7 yellaf.gif 60m take lots of hand size cams or hexes

 

p2 continue up ridge to top of pinnacle 40m 5.6

 

p3 step across gap and follow cracks and face holds up and right to ridge crest then cut back left up overhanging fingerflake to belay ledge 50m 5.7 smirk.gif

 

p4 go up ridge 5.6

 

p 5 go up ridge 5.6

 

p6 climb corner to under roof. go left under roof on funky undercling (orange TCU) till able to to reach left hand up and over for hidden thank god jug 5.7++ hahaha.gifhahaha.gif

 

p7 do some easy climbing up and left on slabs

 

p8-10 4th class and 3rd class and hike to top.

 

Descend E ridge (4th class for 10m at top then 3rd, dont need rope or rap).

 

Should take under 12 hours round trip from car except if trapped behind slow parties as it can be hard to pass.

 

Smoke some Kootenay bud afters. mushsmile.gif

 

That 1974 5.7 sure feels hard but those guys (Greg Shannon, Peter Koedt, Peter Rowat) were real men back then not wimpy bolt clippers. Originally led in hiking boots!

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Look in the summit register on the 9/11 tradgedy. You'll see my name.

 

Also, look a few days or weeks before that. There is either a funny, or scary entry about a guy that came up there to kill himself, then the following entries of folks trying to find the jumper. Good drama on the mtn.

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199_gimli.jpg

 

right skyline and follow yer nose at the top

 

you can see the crux roof near the apparent top of the ridge in this photo, near the bottom of the cloud

 

and at left you can see fred has da rope and 2 hexes hanging off a chest harness to impress any ladies met on da way out

 

but all we met was mark landreville snaf.gif

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