RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 even if 99.9% of us will never get there...its still interesting, particularly the comments about the "American" approach to top level climbing... Check this... Quote
Sphinx Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 That's interesting, considering the Dave Pegg article of 1995 entitled "you suck", discussing why Americans sucked in comparison to Europeans. Thanks for the article. A good read. Quote
lummox Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 RuMR said: ...its still interesting, particularly the comments about the "American" approach to top level climbing... i clicked that fuckin link and quickly experienced mego. couldnt read the whole thing. its all so much navel gazing stained further brown by nationalism. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 hmm. some "interesting" statements ... some not so much. quirky euros. Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 lummox said: RuMR said: ...its still interesting, particularly the comments about the "American" approach to top level climbing... i clicked that fuckin link and quickly experienced mego. couldnt read the whole thing. its all so much navel gazing stained further brown by nationalism. Nationalism? WTF are you talking about?? The guy that wrote it is ITALIAN and is talking up the American approach? That's your definition of Nationalism???? It had German, Spanish, italian and american climbers and routes...so, exactly what was nationalistic about it?? No comment on navel gazing...not as much fun as grazing... TAh TAh Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 EU nationalism perhaps...they are all the same country...just like canada is the 51st state. Quote
lummox Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 RuMR said: Nationalism? WTF are you talking about?? The guy that wrote it is ITALIAN and is talking up the American approach? That's your definition of Nationalism???? It had German, Spanish, italian and american climbers and routes...so, exactly what was nationalistic about it?? No comment on navel gazing...not as much fun as grazing... TAh TAh i see little benefit for noting the nationality of climbers. one world one love. Quote
erik Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 rumr i dig the article, i cannot enough of other ideas on how to improve yourself. the evelution of self is easily indetifiable in the medium of climbing!!!! i posted this a few weeks back, beacuse i always think about it right at "the" moment!! and it also brings me back to the days of yester year when we were a bunch of really sucky climbers down at smith and i would see you throwing a fit while climbing.....i just knew that there wasevery bit of your shortness going into it!!!! phuq'n rad! Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 Ahhhh...its been a loooooooong time since i threw a good wobbler...a very long time... Those wobbler's usually came right after i fell off of something that i'd literally given everything i had on, over the course of several seasons...things that i specifically trained for, then drive 6 hours for a single day of climbing then got beat down on...In a single definition, toooo hard for my suck-self... Don't climb that way anymore...just don't have the emotional mojo/energy/time to really focus on that stuff now...soooo, if it doesn't go down in two or three tries I MOVE on...more 'bout getting out w/ buddies and just having a great time ...can't wait till my sons are ramped up on it...we'll see if they dig it... Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 RuMR said: No comment on navel gazing...not as much fun as grazing... LOL. Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 (edited) lummox said: "tall people reach. short people climb." OH Yeah!! You know what cracks me up?? When a tall person says it all comes out in the wash... I've never heard someone say "Ohhhh if i was only a couple of inches SHORTER!"....hahahahaha Lynn Hill and Scott Franklin are my climbing heros...man, they just figure out how to get their short asses around stuff like nobody's business... Edited June 9, 2003 by RuMR Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 RuMR said: lummox said: "tall people reach. short people climb." OH Yeah!! You know what cracks me up?? When a tall person says it all comes out in the wash... I've never heard someone say "Ohhhh if i was only a couple of inches SHORTER!"....hahahahaha Lynn Hill and Scott Franklin are my climbing heros...man, they just figure out how to get their short asses around stuff like nobody's business... i wished i was shorter on orphan yesterday in squish... i was all crouched up in the roof and it was fucking awkward... couple inches shorter and i would have been able to straighten out under the roof... Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 FenceShitter... Just reach over the roof, instead of climbing under it, dumbass...you can't climb anyway, you're too tall!!!! HAHAHAHAHA Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 RuMR said: FenceShitter... Just reach over the roof, instead of climbing under it, dumbass...you can't climb anyway, you're too tall!!!! HAHAHAHAHA havin a hard time seeing that as possible... what dyno outta the finger lock corner out and up to the hold? je pense que non a little easier to just clim up and reach, just more awkward if you are above 5 foot tall... so i guess you would have no problem there... Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 I don't know the route...just giving you shit...that's all... Good route?? I'll be up there this weekend... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 yeah...definitely...last route of the weekend...we did it on the way outta squish... on nice committing move out away form your gear and if youfall at the crux you take a lil whiper around and into the corner... only 5.9, but it was put up in the 70's so it is like a real 5.9 (not 'squish 5.9") murrin park area...hit it up...short hike in and a nice begining (or end) to a trip for a warm up or warm down... Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 yeah, but that's a trad climb. rumr only climbs sport. Quote
iain Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 wasn't he just talking about climbing that crack on monkeyface. Took a look at that this weekend, looks sick! Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 thelawgoddess said: yeah, but that's a trad climb. rumr only climbs sport. Yep...sport only...hahahahaha...that other "stuff" isn't climbing...just grovelling and making stink-bug noises!!! HAHAHAHAHA Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 iain said: wasn't he just talking about climbing that crack on monkeyface. Took a look at that this weekend, looks sick! That IS sport climbing...you run up the .12a corner and "fix" the route w/ a bunch of TCU's...they work the same as bolts and you can put them in at chicken spacing!!HAHAHAHAHAHAHA (just kidding, i'd bring my rack up...you'd plug all of your finger locks if you preplaced the gear( So, what did you think of that line, though?? Truly stupendous, isn't it?? And what a position!!!!!!!!! WOW Quote
RuMR Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 man, the purple zone above looks dope...no way could i do it, but Double wow on that one especially...holy freaking cow!!!! Alan Watts was truly the granddaddy hisself if you ask me... Quote
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