Sloth_Man Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 While I posted before saying that some retrobolting may be good I have to say that people trying FFA's of old aid lines have gone way too far in many cases retrobolting stuff. Â The bosch brothers ruined Lurking Fear IMHO. What other routes are next? Does their ability to climb 512/13 cracks make it Ok? And what's up with the bolts on the Muir Wall? They couldn't free the original traverse out from under the shield roof or what? Maybe they've pre-empted something that can be done in the future? Isn't that a primary argument agains new bolts? Â One or two quietly placed bolts on out of the way climbs is one thing, but to bolt up a whole pitch and alter the direction of a long standing route is another matter. Â Like someone else said there's plenty of rock go find some new stuff. Â I don't see Hubers putting in mass bolts to get an FFA, and they aren't even locals. Some of those guys just seem like Todd Skinners on steriods to me. Quote
Smoker Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 (edited) It was good chatting with you and Gaston. I'm gonna return with body armor  Even better watching you send American Pie   Who knows the beta to Spencers Spaceport?  Edited June 10, 2003 by Smoker Quote
mattp Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 Smoker said: Who knows the beta to Spencers Spaceport? Â Walk along the big ledge below OnLine and when it starts to drop down, scramble up to another ledge system. Follow this one and it will drop and you can scramble up onto another. Do it again (a bolt with an oversized hanger will come in handy for a handhold), and you'll end up at the "Lost Charms Tree." From here, you step down a little and then climb out and right (all but the complete badass will require a belay). In most of a rope-length, with maybe a tcu or two as pro, you'll reach the Spaceport, a long and wide ledge at the base of Shock Treatment. From here, it is a relatively easy climb/scramble up to the Old Milwaukee Tree at the base of Fuddhat. Â It's worth it. Shock Treatment and Fuddhat/Kill de Wabbit are probably, in my opinion, the best routes at Static Point (I haven't done them all and the routes through the roof below the Curious Cube, in particular, look as if they may be pretty good). Â It is possible to avoid all the scrambling and climbing to get to Spencer's Spaceport and the Old Milwaukee Tree, but it is not really any easier or safer, and the more "standard" traverse I describe is the way to go. Quote
JayB Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 Smoker said: It was good chatting with you and Gaston. I'm gonna return with body armor  Even better watching you send American Pie  Nice to meet you guys too. Sorry for subjecting you two to the Lamaze breathing at the crux . In hindsight, I'd have to say that was the best pitch I've climbed at Static so far although, as with the business pitch on Online, it may be a while before I feel the need to do it again. The next visit out there will definitely begin at the Spaceport.... Quote
JayB Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 And while I've got Static on the brain... Â Anyone know if Artie Rip has had any repeat ascents? Quote
mattp Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 'Don't know about any repeats, but I gotta say: I'd tip my hat to you if you'd repeat it. 5.10 and runout on bolts that are 1/4" and 20 years old; 5.10 climbing where you could hit the deck even if the bolts don't fail; and 4 bolts in 150 feet (I don't think you're going to get any additional pro with "gear"); and .... please don't fall and send us a route report if you try it. (And let me know if you want to go and replace those old bolts.) Quote
JayB Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 Â Don't worry - I did not and do not have any intention of ever getting on that route myself. Just wondering if anyone besides the FAs had ever done it. I'd be willing to help replace the bolts for the benefit of climbers bolder than myself though... Quote
mattp Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 JayB said: Don't worry - I did not and do not have any intention of ever getting on that route myself. Â I am sadly let down. I thought maybe you had promise.... Quote
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