catbirdseat Posted June 2, 2003 Author Posted June 2, 2003 The chimney is only 5.6++ if you have a beer gut. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 ya know there may be a harder chimney like feature off that ledge cuz when i climbed what i thought was spring fever on the third pitch we elected to not do the chimney but some crack to the right that i remember being like 5.8 so maybe crackbolter you did climb a crack harder then 5.6. did the pitch/chim end at a tree? Quote
Dru Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 yellowjacket tower  enchainment of all peshastin spires in a day using air support Quote
iain Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 peshastin...isn't that where people clip screamers on the bolts? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 iain said: peshastin...isn't that where people clip screamers on the bolts? only if you're scared.... ARE YOU SCARED?!??!??!!!! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 slaphappy said: terrified. tooooo bad the rock is fun to climb when it stays intack! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 ooops yes, when the rock doesnt erode away.... Quote
Crackbolter Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 Sajak, Â The chimney I climbed (followed BTW) was at least 5.8 and poorly protected. I sent a route description to the trip reporter before he went but it sounds like they went the easiest way up and skipped the top pitch. If you look in Viktor's new book you can see a chimney directly above where the route ends that heads up diagionally. It felt like 5.8 to me but I'm not a very strong climber. Maybe you should do a recon and investigate. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 ahh yes... dan, cory and I climbed that pitch three years ago too... fun and little gear... it looks like in the topo the line goes thru the 5.6 chimney. hard to tell with the distance away from the crag the photo is taken from... Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 3, 2003 Author Posted June 3, 2003 We had to jog right to get to the 5.6 chimney, but then we may have been off-route to the left. The chimney you describe as 5.8 is more of an off-width, isn't it? What were the dimensions? Quote
Crackbolter Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 It started as a 6" to 8" straight in crack at about 5.7 (?) for about 15 to 20' (no pro) to the entrance of the chimney which then you climb deep into the chimney. Sound like the same one you climbed Szy? Quote
erik Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 YOU GUYS ARE MAKING ALL THIS UP, SPECIALLY CRACKBOLTER AND SCUZZY! Â Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 oh yeah... hmmm. no - here! i have pics and gps to proove it. In fact, I actually dropped my camera while thrutching up the chimney the first time i led it and then fished it out 6months later; finished the roll of film with a different partner! Â Quote
Toast Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 Crackbolter said: It started as a 6" to 8" straight in crack at about 5.7 (?) for about 15 to 20' (no pro) to the entrance of the chimney which then you climb deep into the chimney. Sound like the same one you climbed Szy? Â I don't think it was quite 5.7, and the off withdth was more like 10' before it got wide enough to fit your body into, but aside from that what you describe sounds pretty similar to what we ran into. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 i remember the first time i was terrified but aren't all chimneys terrifying... Santa need not reply! Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 3, 2003 Author Posted June 3, 2003 I think we're all talking about the same chimney. We just disagree on the rating. If you don't like chimneys, they'll seem harder. Â Since our belay wasn't right below the chimney, I didn't want to set pro right away and make for a lot of rope drag, so the first piece I set was a sling on a small chockstone about 20 ft up. The first part on the outside of the chimney was easy because of big chickenheads for your feet. Quote
Toast Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 That's about right, but I'm wearing pants next time. My knees are all scraped up. Quote
Paul_K Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 Toast said: That's about right, but I'm wearing pants next time. My knees are all scraped up. Â This hideous image has ruined the rest of my day. Quote
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